I correct all my lines on Light Room with a few tweaks (or photoshop if you prefer). For exteriors I have to shoot entire buildings in London so super tight streets-in an ideal world tilt shift would be perfect (but damn expensive and time consuming for RE)-however you can get away without having a tilt shift, just make sure you give your building enough clear sky as possible so that when you correct in post you dont end up cropping the top of the building off, this of course is when in tight streets hopefully you will be shooting in lovely wide open space where you can get far enough back without a brick wall, line of cars, dustbins, tourists getting in the way haha. Another way is if you can try and view the building from a long vantage point and shoot with a long lens…my advice would be unless your getting into serious Architecture work dont bother with the tilt shift just perfect your craft with a “wide” lens.

Its entirely different skill set to shooting people, but its highly enjoyable, always interesting and its gotten me into seeing some of Londons most expensive houses…. have fun and good luck

@ John – where are you seeing this? I don’t own any heavy-duty lightstands… In any case, in my experience, it’s more the light you’re mounting on it that makes the difference. I find it much faster to use speedlights than to use “studio” heads, regardless of the stand it’s on. Typically, the light costs MUCH more than the stand, so I wouldn’t get too hung up on stand expense. Still, you’re going to have to invest in some grip, if you’re going to work commercially.