Ditto! When that stops we should put the camera away. Critiquing others will help too. Don't worry about giving your opinion on other posts. Your thoughts are welcome.
:)
What Ruth said. I don't know if you've been to a lot of other photo sites, but this one has proven to be very friendly and accepting of critical remarks. Either people here have thicker skin, or they all welcome critique of their work.
I'm always trying to learn.. If someone is willing to help w/o being an ash,all the better..
Lol. 😀 📷 📱
I'm editing all my images on the Snapseed app on my phone. It works well enough for now,till I get a setup..
Hey Garret - there is a program called Polarr that is an online lightroom program. It has a limited but not horrible free version and a subscription 'pro' service for about $30 a year. It is not editing like photoshop but rather fine-tuning. It is great and it is all I use. And, it is online so you can pull it up on a library computer or friends or .... Check it out. So far it has met my needs at a cost I can do.
That's basically what snapseed is.. It's pretty good.. I tried the free lightroom app, it doesn't have as many features as snapseed on the free version but the pro version probably has much better features. At least you can composite with snapseed,well,kinda. You have to double expose then darken,and adjust opacity. But it does have to have identical backgrounds.. No masking.. But it works.. I will def check out Polarr. Thanks for the advice!
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pdbreske
First, I don't believe anyone would "pull a post" unless it was an image completely against the site's terms of service.
Second, I'm guessing you used a strobe of some kind on the sugar shot and I'm guessing there was also a modeling light or some kind of hot light on the set. It looks like you used the default "first curtain flash" instead of a second curtain flash setting. This results in the flash or strobe popping when the first half of the focal plane shutter has fully opened, but sometime before the second half of the shutter has started its movement to close the shutter opening. In the interval between the flash and the second curtain, some amount of ambient light managed to slightly expose the sugar crystals and caught a very slight motion blur. Unfortunately, because the flash brightness is so much greater than the ambient light, the sugar crystals are more brightly exposed during the flash and they leave a small "tail" of light the flash pop. When this happens, it makes the crystals look like they are going up instead of down (because most people assume a tail is at the trailing edge of a moving object).
To counter this phenomenon, see if your camera has a second curtain flash sync setting. This will delay the flash pop until JUST BEFORE the second shutter curtain starts to close the opening and any ambient light will expose the sugar crystals before the flash pop. Any light trails will then trick the viewer into thinking the crystals are actually moving down into the mug (which they are) and it will look more realistic.
(Some studio strobes will actually turn off the modeling light when the main flash pops and the modeling light will stay off until the strobe is fully charged for the next shot. This has the side effect of removing any unwanted hot lighting from the exposure.)
Or ... you could make sure any ambient light on the set is so completely dim that it doesn't actually infect the final exposure, no matter which curtain sync setting you use.
This also works for making falling water look like rain in a studio setting, although, in my opinion, rain always looks best when the drops are long streaks of light instead of frozen dots in the air.
These are great Garret! The lighting on both is beautiful as is the color. Composition on both is terrific. Two thumbs up!
Ty Ruth.. I'm just trying to get better..
Ditto! When that stops we should put the camera away. Critiquing others will help too. Don't worry about giving your opinion on other posts. Your thoughts are welcome.
:)
What Ruth said. I don't know if you've been to a lot of other photo sites, but this one has proven to be very friendly and accepting of critical remarks. Either people here have thicker skin, or they all welcome critique of their work.
I'm always trying to learn.. If someone is willing to help w/o being an ash,all the better..
Lol. 😀 📷 📱
I'm editing all my images on the Snapseed app on my phone. It works well enough for now,till I get a setup..
Hey Garret - there is a program called Polarr that is an online lightroom program. It has a limited but not horrible free version and a subscription 'pro' service for about $30 a year. It is not editing like photoshop but rather fine-tuning. It is great and it is all I use. And, it is online so you can pull it up on a library computer or friends or .... Check it out. So far it has met my needs at a cost I can do.
That's basically what snapseed is.. It's pretty good.. I tried the free lightroom app, it doesn't have as many features as snapseed on the free version but the pro version probably has much better features. At least you can composite with snapseed,well,kinda. You have to double expose then darken,and adjust opacity. But it does have to have identical backgrounds.. No masking.. But it works.. I will def check out Polarr. Thanks for the advice!
First, I don't believe anyone would "pull a post" unless it was an image completely against the site's terms of service.
Second, I'm guessing you used a strobe of some kind on the sugar shot and I'm guessing there was also a modeling light or some kind of hot light on the set. It looks like you used the default "first curtain flash" instead of a second curtain flash setting. This results in the flash or strobe popping when the first half of the focal plane shutter has fully opened, but sometime before the second half of the shutter has started its movement to close the shutter opening. In the interval between the flash and the second curtain, some amount of ambient light managed to slightly expose the sugar crystals and caught a very slight motion blur. Unfortunately, because the flash brightness is so much greater than the ambient light, the sugar crystals are more brightly exposed during the flash and they leave a small "tail" of light the flash pop. When this happens, it makes the crystals look like they are going up instead of down (because most people assume a tail is at the trailing edge of a moving object).
To counter this phenomenon, see if your camera has a second curtain flash sync setting. This will delay the flash pop until JUST BEFORE the second shutter curtain starts to close the opening and any ambient light will expose the sugar crystals before the flash pop. Any light trails will then trick the viewer into thinking the crystals are actually moving down into the mug (which they are) and it will look more realistic.
(Some studio strobes will actually turn off the modeling light when the main flash pops and the modeling light will stay off until the strobe is fully charged for the next shot. This has the side effect of removing any unwanted hot lighting from the exposure.)
Or ... you could make sure any ambient light on the set is so completely dim that it doesn't actually infect the final exposure, no matter which curtain sync setting you use.
This also works for making falling water look like rain in a studio setting, although, in my opinion, rain always looks best when the drops are long streaks of light instead of frozen dots in the air.
This was really helpful to me Phillip! Thank you for taking this much time to explain this. You are a gem.
:)
Just trying to impart some of the knowledge I've gleaned from my betters over the years. :)
Ty Phillip.. Very helpful
If you guys like it,please rate my port. Be Honest but gentle. Lol