Good afternoon! I am new to the group an want to start out by giving you guys a quick "thank you" for having me!
I've recently begun playing around with indoor macro on my T5i and have been using Extension Tubes + EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM Lens to get the looks I want. I decided to pick up a simple set of bellows ( https://amzn.com/B00QUXOPB6 ) to try out for no other reason than "why not?"
I set everything up, but my camera shows my F-stop at "F00" which I know is essentially an error-code stating that the camera cannot communicate with lens. The bellows has no electronics in it, so no major deal there, but I am having focusing issues.
What experience can you guys share with me around using bellows, especially where focusing is concerned? I have a range of lenses I can try (my 50mm on the bellows looks just like my 24mm with extension tubes, I have noticed), so feel free to share your thoughts!
Thank again,
Austin
I don't use bellows but I do have experience with macro photography. I use the Canon MP-E65mm 1x-5x lens. Did this bellows come with the focussing rail system? Depth of field is so shallow when doing extreme macro that it is an absolute must have for focus stacking.
This is an image I made yesterday of a Golden Orb Weaver Spider. It used a combined 28 images using focus stacking software (Helicon Focus) and then touching up in PS CS6. The MP-E 65 lens is a fixed focal length lens and I'm wondering that if when using the bellows unit you would be best suited to not try and use the focussing ring at all and move it back and forth with the focussing rail. The depth of field is so shallow...we are talking millimeters or less that trying to focus using the lens ring [I would think] would be nearly impossible.
I use a bellows for almost all of my macro. It is an old Minolta film bellows that I adapted to my Canon camera. There is NO electrical connection, so all focus and aperture is set manually. This removes it from the metadata in the file. Since I don't care a lot what the aperture and f-stop is in the final image, I don't try to keep it by means of written notes.
In order to make this work, i use my camera on manual setting only. I am not familiar with the T5i but I assume in manual mode it will allow you to make the shot.
Focusing with a bellows is difficult. Since the depth of field is fractions of an inch, it is necessary to use f/8 or smaller aperture for most images. When your aperture is f/8 or smaller, the image is too dark to focus accurately. You can use a tripod, open the lens up wide, focus, stop down to the desired aperture and then shoot. This doesn't work well with moving objects like bees and butterflies. You can make your best guess and take multiple shots while moving the camera very slightly - again, does not work well as you have a plethora of pictures with few or none in proper focus.
You can use a more open aperture and realize the bee's eye will be in focus but his antennae will not.
I have done all of these with varying degrees of success. Butterflies are usually easier than bees and gnats, Shoot a lot, try different techniques, and don't be afraid to mix them up as you shoot.
I don't use focus stacking or other multi shot techniques. I do the best I can with my camera and lens and discard the poorer images
I had this same problem when I started with macro using a reverse ring adaptor. Basically your lens, when attached to the camera, is at it's widest aperture during focusing. When you hit the shutter button and actually take a picture, the lens closes down to your selected aperture (ie: f/8, f/11, etc...) the picture is recorded and the aperture goes back to it's starting position (in your case a f/2.8). This is so the viewfinder isn't dark when you're composing your shot.
You'll need to preselect your aperture, then you'll have to hold down the aperture preview button (usually it's located on the side of the actual lens mount, mine is opposite of the lens release button) and at the same time detach the lens. This locks it into the aperture you've selected which will in turn increase your depth of field.
The downside of this is that you'll have a dark viewfinder when composing your shot, but the end result will have much less shallow range of "in focus" area (although since it's macro, it will still be limited). I hope this helps!
Ed