Hello Everyone!
I come across a lot of talk about manual focus vs auto focus. I have never used manual except by accident once when the switch got bumped.
Firstly, what's the difference?
and
Secondly, and the reason at this point that I can't even experiment with the two, how does someone with terrible close vision and mediocre distance vision compensate in order to use manual? Even with my glasses on, I don't trust what I'm seeing enough to switch to manual.
Hope all is well out there!
It's raining here today; so just added a rainy day abstract photo as a cover for this post.
Manual vs Auto Focus: I switch back and forth as both are neither the correct answer.
Example 1: if you are photographing a bird in flight, auto focus (along with tracking et cetera) is absolutely necessary. Same with photographing people....
Example 2: Astrophotography absolutely needs manual focus as well as focus stacking in some landscape scenes, depending on your objective.
For astrophotos I use the prescribed method of manually focusing the camera on the brightest star and digitally zoom in and adjust as required until the star is as sharp as possible, then reorient the camera and GO!
My vision (as well of hearing) is so poor that on a Savanna's of Africa 2000 years ago I would have been considered a valid food source.
Normally I look through the top of my eyewear or remove them completely. Yes, it makes for a few, quite a few, missed shots. A stagnant Landscape with a tripod is easiest.
Love your description of your vision/hearing. That made me laugh ... This makes a lot of sense - as a ground rule using auto for eye tracking as in your beautiful hummingbird, and using manual for stagnant landscapes (on a tripod) where you have more time to fiddle with the focus. Then from those ground rules, play around with both as best as your eyes can do. Thanks for this. I think I'm going to branch out and start trying the manual especially after reading Andrew's post on accessory diopters. I appreciate the information and examples!
Auto Focus with animal eye tracking was a must with this photo.
Manual focus was mandatory for this photo.
Depending on the camera make/model/age, the autofocus may/may not be smart enough to focus accurately on particular subjects, especially if they are dynamic/moving. This is one reason I have considered upgrading from my DSLR to a newer system. One problem I see often is shooting something and the camera autofocuses on partially masking tree branches. In those circumstances choosing manual focus would be appropriate. Your camera viewfinder may have a built-in diopter adjustment that would allow you to focus manually more accurately without your glasses. My Nikon does, and accessory diopters were available to this were available for Nikons as far back as the 60s.
Good point Andrew. Anything moving within the frame may cause the auto focus to reassess and lock onto the wrong subject.
Good point on the viewfinder adjustment also.
I didn't realize there are accessory diopters. I will check into these. I've experienced exactly what you posted about the autofocus choosing the wrong focus because of movement. I appreciate you taking time to reply. How is your vision, and what is your experience with the diopter helping you to see clearly, and have you used an accessory diopter?
All my Canon cameras come with a diopter, but my vision is so poor I can't see without my glasses.
So, if I am shooting something moving I cannot remove my glasses completely but peek over the top of my glasses. The problem with this method is framing. I cannot get my eye tight against the viewfinder.
A question: Your gear bag shows you shoot Canon, which model do you use?
Diopters were available for the Nikon F and F2 when I worked in various camera stores through the 70s. I don't remember them being available for Nikkormats or any camera from any other manufacturer. They might have been, but we never sold one. They were not available for my Canon FTb, but since I switched to a Nikon FM in 1980 I cannot say this was a topic I tracked. I used an aftermarket eyepiece mainly to avoid scratching my glasses. When the My Nikon F4 was introduced, diopter adjustment was built into the interchangeable Photomic viewfinder. I expect every Nikon "professional" camera since then did, too.
It kind of sounds like you don't know that the new cameras have AI focusing. You can choose between animal, bird, people and even insect (on Sonys) focusing! The new Sonys even keep focusing on the back of the head until the person turns around.
Another example as Andrew mentioned is dynamic/moving scene.
Even with my R5 it was nigh impossible to use Auto Focus in this scene with a shallow DoF, while the subject was semi stationary the plants in fore, mid and background were blowing in the breeze.
I had to settle for manual focusing.
I think this may be a good example where lack of contrast causes an issue with auto focusing. Can you recall if the lens was 'hunting', or would the focus just not lock on?
The camera would Lock On okay but if I didn't immediately take the shot the moving non-subject was chosen. Lack of contrast was the biggest issue. I have noticed some animals with Black Eyes are also difficult. So, the adage: "Don't shoot until you see the whites of their eyes", is problematic.
This makes sense. With your vision, what is your experience with the diopter helping you to see clearly, and have you ever used an accessory diopter?
Thanks for initiating this engaging discussion Jenny.
Just to jump on what has been said (accurately) already. One thing to be aware of with autofocus is that it requires an area of high contrast at the focus point. You may have noticed the camera 'hunt' as you try to lock in focus due to lack of contrast, thus delaying the taking of the shot.
I tend to use spot focusing - selecting a single spot to lock focus then moving the camera to frame. That way I'm fully aware of the focus plane.
Otherwise, I may focus then switch the lens to manual if I am waiting for a scene to develop and don't want focus to shift.
I would say for anyone with bad eyes autofocus is likely your best bet, whether that be spot focusing for accuracy or allowing the camera to best judge the scene, especially when subjects are not static.
I know exactly what you're saying about autofocus and high contrast. I do use spot focus the majority of the time, and it does help. Do you have vision issues and, if so, what is your experience in using the diopter to see clearly/reliably - and have you used accessory diopters?
My eyes aren't bad tbh, but I still have the viewfinder adjusted to suit.
I think in the majority of conditions (ie consistent focal plane) using spot focus and switching to manual only if needed might produce the best results. I suspect the camera spot focusing system is slightly more accurate than either of our failing eyes.....
When you start photographing for the first time, you use automatic mode then over time you start to learn the modes until you're using full manual mode, and it opens a new possibilities. I think to a certain extent, using manual focus will be the same thing once I get a chance to truly sit still to do it.
When I first started photography, I shot film with manual focus, because it was what I had available. I was about 15 yrs old and my dad allowed me to use his Pentax on our holidays. That was some 30 years ago.
I still have my Minolta SR-T201 and Pentax P3n. It's easy to learn shooting in Manual mode on those cameras.
When I started when I was eighteen until I got rid of my manual focusing Nikon film camera about 10 years ago, I never had a problem with focusing. Since I've been shooting digital, I don't think I would do as good anymore. I do like modern cameras' auto-focusing... though on my old-ish model, I do sometimes mess that up!
i use it sometimes in low-light sport/aviation photography where the contrast is not enough for the AF to latch on a target. or when a subject like the jets I photograph comes into the frame very quickly (some sports are like that as well ) then one must do zone focus (manual) and now you just wait and press the shutter ... instant focus
Love your image, Jennifer! Nobody seems to have noticed it, but I think it's great.
I'm long-sighted & wear contacts and have another visual issue, so I rely on the camera's aids. Having said that, I often use manual focus (utilising the camera's focus-confirmation) because I use manual lenses (28, 35 and macro 55mm Nikons). My most-used lens is the excellent 80-400 AFS, which I always use in AF mode - in fact I tape the focus collar so I can't accidentally nudge it off focus when concentrating on framing or something else. But I focus separately using a button on the back of the camera, and use the shutter release only for that.
Except when I'm photographing those people things that move around so much. (Best avoided, really.) Then I use the shutter release for both - focus on a face and reframe. Then the bloody things move... give me landscape any day.
Great to hear from you Chris, I hope all is going well with you.
I am just about to embark on a week-long trip to New York city and am planning to practice some street photography.
I typically do not use the back focus button (as you indicate) but I think this function will be useful this week - allowing me to pre-focus and being able to raise the camera to shoot without fear of the lens refocusing as the shutter is released.
That's the theory anyway, we'll see how it pans out.
BTW - have you tried AF-C for moving subjects? I typically do the same as you (spot focus on shutter release and reframe) but AF-C is designed to track the subject so may be worth a try.
Hi Alan! Good to hear from you, too. I relatively rarely do much people photography, so I generally screw it up because I'm used to a leisurely pace. Even AF-C doesn't save me! At least with digital, you can take lots of images to increase the number of keepers.
Even my old 2014 Sony a6000 has face detection. You guys must have much newer cameras(???) In the menu, there's eye detection in AF section. Newer cameras have separate animal eye detection.
Hi Chris! Thanks for the compliment on the photo … I read your post several times, but I'm a little confused. Maybe you can walk me through it.
You said, “Having said that, I often use manual focus (utilising the camera's focus-confirmation) because I use manual lenses (28, 35 and macro 55mm Nikons)” ... the lens/camera will provide a focus confirmation in manual mode as well?
You said, “My most-used lens is the excellent 80-400 AFS, which I always use in AF mode - in fact I tape the focus collar so I can't accidentally nudge it off focus when concentrating on framing or something else.” … does the focus collar affect focus when in AF?
You're right about the “bloody things that move.” If I could just say pause and the world would listen. Lol! By the way, I'm a back-button focus devotee. Nice to hear from you again. I've been wondering how you're doing since I haven't seen you post for awhile!
Sorry for the slow reply, Jennifer. I must say I like your work and your attitude. I haven't been on FS regularly lately, and have been doing little photography for various reasons. Answering you points in turn:
Yes, my cameras have all given focus confirmation for manual lenses. (I actually leave the camera in AF mode, so when I connect an AF lens, it's ready to go.) I change lenses a lot.
Yes, annoyingly for me, the focus can always be "touched up" on the 80-400 using the focus collar after using AF to focus. The focus collar on this lens is close to the camera, and the zoom collar is further away, so it's almost impossible to avoid accidentally ruining the focus. Therefore I've resorted to the tape.
Okay, I got it. There are so many things that I don't know. The internet is overwhelming with information; so I resorted to just an as something comes to my attention attitude. Thank you for bringing it to mine! Also thank you for the compliments on the photos; I appreciate it! Hope you are able to get out and take pictures again soon! I guess you're in your spring season?
Hi Jennifer! Yes, it's spring here, but I'm not taking my usual leave and doing photography as I'm trying to sort out some house renovation. Very frustrating!
Hope you're well and contented.
I use both, sometimes you might want to control exactly where your camera focusses, actually there may be situations where you want everything soft focus. Also, recently I've had an eye operation and now, until I get to the bottom of things, auto focus is good because I trust the camera not my eye!
I know there are other solutions, so I'm experimenting.