The fashion industry is home to some of the most dynamic and fluid trends that the world has ever seen. No doubt, the existence of this ever-changing and highly creative environment is mainly as a result of the diversity and creative uniqueness of the individuals that constitute it. However, even with this seemingly all-inclusive and globally encompassing genre, there is a prominent neglect that seems to be growing even further: the underrepresentation of black female photographers.
Racial divide and marginalization has been a big problem in most fields and even more so in fashion photography. One may argue that this issue spans across all other aspects of black women participation in the fashion industry and there definitely would be a point there. However, the contribution of black women to fashion and beauty photography has brought about great innovation at both ends of the camera and it is a wonder that there are so many of these talented individuals flying under the radar with very little representation.
Photography by Joyanne Panton
A vital point that must be noted is a severe lack of appreciable participation in the industry as a whole as a direct result of the marginalization that these woman face. Not only do they lack a strong platform that provides more opportunities for them in all areas of the industry, black female photographers seem to lack the proper exposure necessary for them to get their work noticed by the larger audiences. Even more interesting to note is the remarkable talent of the few black photographers in the industry. Any in-depth research will reveal a good number of black women who are doing groundbreaking work in their functional spaces and possess a strong portfolio of projects under their sleeves.
Photography by Letura Idigima
Photography by Kia Caldwell
Why then do the big photography companies and other major players in the industry not shine enough light on this demographic? And why does their work seem to be hidden among their fashion photographer counterparts? Why aren't they standing on the forefront as ambassadors or speakers for any of the photographic companies or community in general? Whatever the case may be, the amazing talent that black women have to offer has proven to be a tasteful and revolutionary touch that cannot be ignored. Bringing more notice to this faction would require the creation of strong platforms for these voices to be heard and for their works to be showcased. This helps to provide an avenue for proper recognition while creating prospects for opportunity and progress. By doing this, these women not only get to learn more about themselves but also find support and motivation in one another by fostering a professional community of like minds.
I did months of researching to compile a list of black female fashion photographers. These ladies are talented and deserve a bit of recognition. I am happy I am able to give them a platform to showcase their talents and work.
All images used with permission.
And I am sure you will keep thinking that. So no longer a point to discuss this with you. Especially someone commenting while hiding anonymously.
Peace out !
Wow, the comments here are full of white men not believing someone at their word and asking for proof. Guess the photography industry is struggling with the same racist and misogonistic rubbish that the tech industry does. Ask yourself, white bros, why are you so defensive?
p.s. no idea why this ended up a reply :(
Matt. Seems they know Me and other black photographers better then we know ourselves and our experiences are all made up. Since they have NEVER seen it happen, it can’t possibly be true. We can’t be trusted. teehee 😜
I would never question someone's account of their experiences. Making overarching conclusions from such experiences is always dangerous and requires additional evidence that individual experiences are representative of the whole. Further, there are two points to the article. One being there aren't a lot of black female photographers in the fashion industry. If you're a black female photographer wanting to break into the industry, that can be disheartening but shouldn't be a deterrent. Obviously, it wasn't for Ms. Cole. The other point being, it's a result of a mixture of racism and sexism. Being impossible to prove, it should be stated as a theory and not a fact. Certainly do something about it if you think it warrants action but telling a bunch of other photographers seems pointless. Is anyone on this forum in a position to do anything?
Regarding your p.s.: I've experienced out of sequence posts too. In my browser, your comment isn't showing up as a reply.
p.p.s. Change your photo. It looks kinda creepy.
lol cute.
You can start your own article on that if you would like, but has nothing to do with this one. Try to stay on topic !
This article has received more comments than any other since I have been on this forum, so I'd say you are well represented.
Hey! Don't build up the competition! I need that NAS!!!
I wonder if everyone trying for them even knows how to use them? Actually, I didn't read this but I'm thinking they don't include the drives so I'll be out several hundred dollars if I win. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I am a bit surprised that people are still talking about stuff like this. This is being written about in every scene and about every industry and has been increasingly so for some years. "Why are black, female, gay, hispanic, asian, transgender, autistic, bipolar, etc. photographers, DJs, chefs (insert interest or artistic medium here) underrepresented in whatever field?" The logic is totally flawed. If there were, for example, an equal number of back and white photographers producing the same quality work, yet white photographers got hired for more jobs, or had their work displayed more often in prominent places, that would be underrepresentation. If there are simply not as many people from one "group" doing something as there are from another "group", in this case black photographers, that is disproportionate, not underrepresented. Now, you may ask yourself or wonder, "are there less black female photographers because the photography community has marginalized them?" In some cases have black female photographers been treated differently, or encountered difficulty because of their race and gender? Probably. Sure, we know racism and sexism exist, but is that why they are not proportionally equal to there white male counterparts? No. the fact is that some people are simply not as interested in things as others. Some argue that there are not enough female DJs "represented" in that scene. There are loads of famous female DJs, but, there are simply not as many females that are interested in DJing. Why are there not as many female chefs as there are males? Sexism? No. A lot of women don't want to spend hours in a smelly kitchen away from their families only to develop a nasty alcohol and coke habit. Are there female chefs? Yes. Is there an equal number of female and male chefs? No. So, are they underrepresented? No. Why are white rappers so underrepresented in that scene? Why are straight asian men from single parent homes underrepresented in synchronized swimming? We, as a society, cannot force an equal number of people to be interested in, nor successful at, any particular thing. Can we allow any particular group of people access to an industry? Yes, and we are constantly moving in that direction socially and legally. But, we have to stop asking this question and trying to make everything proportionate and equal. Otherwise, the very logical and uncomfortable outcome will be enforced proportionate equality where certain groups are actually overrepresented and other groups will be pushed into an industry they don't want because their allotment in their industry of choice is full. "Sorry, Mr. Johnson, we have reached our quota of straight, white, anglo-saxon, protestant nail technicians for this season. Maybe you can try again next year or find another field where you are firmly underrepresented." I don't dislike this article, the author, nor the question she is trying to ask. I just think it is an invalid question and the wrong question to be asking. You really have to ask the questions, why don't more people of X group want to do Y thing, should they want to do Y thing, and is it possible for every socially constructed category of X to achieve perceived equal representation in every scene, industry and interest Y?
First of all, amazing work Dana! Do you do your own retouching as well? I would love to read about your process sometime.
As for your article I'm not really sure what you're claiming the issue to be. Are you claiming that black female photographers are being shut out of the industry because they are black females? Also, I don't understand what you mean by representation. Who represents Annie Leibovitz or Joanna Kustra? Don't they represent themselves?
I think you're posing a question to a problem that doesn't exist and therefore cannot be solved. If your portfolio is good, you'll get work. It's as simple as that. There's no fashion photography committee sitting around guarding entry into the market based on race & gender.
Hello Jason, thank you for liking my work. yes I do retouching also 🙂
I plan to do more indepth topics on this as it is bigger then this article alone.
One thing(of many) I am saying that, to black women and girls, who may want to get in the fashion photography scene, there is no one on the front line or ambassadors, or speakers, etc, that they can look up to and say, ‘hey, I can do this to’. Versus looking at countless of our white counterparts in every avenue of photography everywhere.
Same goes for other other races as well. I have had this discussion with many of my Latino photographer friends as well. Many of them as well feel they are also lacking proper representation.
There are a few black sucessful female photographer speakers in other genres of photography(portrait, kids, etc.), so, the black female photographers will migrate to those genres because they feel they will have better success there.
My point of my list and speaking on this, is to show and tell them and everyone else that, ‘Hey, there are a few of us out here and we are making it work’!
There is also the aspect of being denied jobs due to things we can’t control like our skin tone and/or gender. In a comment above to another commenter, I shared an experience on which I was discriminated for this reason, and know many other black photographers who have had similar experiences as well.
I can’t tell you how many message I have gotten since my main article and list went up 5 days ago, from all different types of people, from white to black to purple(lol), who said they could not name 2 black female fashion photographers, and did not know we existed at all, and that they were happy to see this my list.
Also, messages from other black female photographers, who were happy to see the list and thought this was a genre they could not do, because they did not know any who did it and is succeeding.
So this list, this article, and hopefully a few more indepth ones, are needed, and wanted !
Hope that answered your question a bit.
Dear Ms. Cole,
As I am composing this post there are already 130 comments on your article. I did not read them all. Sadly, all too many times any thought of having something to offer to such a conversation evaporates in the heat of the commentary challenging everything from your basic premise to the motivations behind the piece.
What I would like to do is challenge you and your editors to do more than simply define the problem, make a list, and wring your hands over what can be done to address these issues. This site has the power to do so and to do it directly by establishing a series of articles featuring the photographers on your list and their back stories.
I, for one, would like to know what compelled these women to pick up a camera in the first place. To know how they persevered in the face of everything from the salesman’s, ‘That’s a big camera for a girl,’ to their treatment by their various agents and editors. Then, if they do get the job, how they manage their shoot without becoming the, ‘B***h with the camera’.
It would seem to me that a lot of the blather above would vanish in a sea of empathy for what these women have endured, as well as the quality of the results they’ve managed to produce.
Just a thought.
It could work…
This is exactly what needs to happen to take this from an opinion piece to a factual article. I hope all of this debate will spark an interest in Dana to go deeper with the topic and prove her point through data and personal stories from others in the industry.
Hiya Kurt,
Thank you for your reply..
I will certainly try to go more indepth with this topic on future articles. This was my first..so I am sure it could have been better.
However, even in going more indepth and sharing stories from myself and other photographers on my list, will not change the minds of those who think all is well.
Even sharing one account from my personal journey as a photographer in a comment above was met with a commet of ‘rumored hearsay’ and not believing it happened the way I said it did.
butttttt, I have never let the naysayers stop me before 😃
Thank you for your advice and tips !
Dear Dana, I realize I’m the 4323th comment on your article, but do want to mention some things.
Yesterday I was talking to a model I work with regularly and since she is black (and I’m not) and racial or cultural prejudism is something that interests me in general we were talking about ‘black in fashion’
I do think the industry is changing, now with Edward Enninful at Brittish Vogue and Pat mcGrath being the most inflentual make up artist in the world I think the industry is opening up.
However, what I dislike, I that I notice that people start working with black models using black ‘styling’ etc. because now it’s hip, with the latest gucci campaign etc.
Photographers should work with different ethnic models because it inspired them, not because it’s the cool thing to do now.
Personally I think society is changing, getting to be more balanced, but I think it needs time, so changes are because of merit, not forced (i’m not saying black fashion photographers are no good, just that it needs perseverance and time)
I’ve always thought that fashion industry is very gay male dominated, I’ve been working in fashion / and fashion photography for over 15 years and I have some straight male friends that complain they did not get the job because they are straight (to the face as well)
I don’t know if this comment is still very coherent, i hope you understand what I’m trying to comment.
BTW. I am sure skin color affects how people perceive you, I got into fashion because it fascinates me that changing the way you look will change your reality.
Wearing a suit makes people treat you differently from if you were wearing tight shorts, same person different reality.
So..., yes, black, white, gay, cute, tall or fat, especially in fashion it DOES matter
This isn't at all taking a side, as I'm a black male. I just don't really, for one, see any examples listed to make me go with it. Not only that, but if I'm being honest, I know of maybe 2-3 black female photographers - not only the "working", but just in general. So if I had to give a response today, maybe it's more of a question of numbers. Less women there are, the less women you'll see from.
For me, I would imagine that if there were an issue with race, that black men would be on the same level as black women. And I can't speak for everyone, but while it did take a bit to get "on", after grinding it out like everyone else, I'm working now as a black male.