Bokeh and Portraits: Why I Just Don't Care

Bokeh and Portraits: Why I Just Don't Care

Pull up almost any lens review these days and one of the primary attributes people are judging is the oh-so-important bokeh. Purchases are made and lenses are brought back all because of the how a lens does or doesn't measure up in the bokeh department. Well I’m here to tell you, at least for portraiture, it’s just plain overrated.

What Is Bokeh?

For the uninitiated, bokeh is the character of the out of focus area in an image. Usually aficionados of bokeh desire smooth transitions from light to dark without jagged areas. Why? Because jagged areas in the out of focus areas are distracting and take away from the overall image. OK, really?

The Nikkor 50mm 1.4D and Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art lenses

Bokeh is, in this photographer’s opinion, one more thing to scrutinize by gearheads (I should know, I am one). It’s a talking point. It’s a gimmick. It’s something that lens manufacturers can point to and say, “Look how smooth my light balls are! Buy my lens!” Yeah, I said it. The bokeh of an image, unless just obscenely ugly, doesn't matter as much as we'd like to believe.

To illustrate my point, I put together a fabulous photoshoot complete with stylists, exotic locations, and the most expensive gear. When that fell through, I did a quick setup in my living room of the cheapest model I could find: me. 

The Experiment

I wanted to show both a close portrait/headshot along with a wider portrait to show how little difference there was in the bokeh of two common, but vastly different, lenses. The first lens is a trusty Nikkor 50mm 1.4D. It's a lens a lot of beginners might select as their first 50mm prime. The next lens is the amazing Sigma 50mm 1.4 ART. This is one of the sharpest consumer lenses out there and has been praised for its bokeh-producing capabilities along with its stupid level of sharpness. Let's see what sort of bokeh these lenses produced wide open.

I threw my camera on a tripod, kicked the dog out of the way, and started triggering away with a CamRanger. I brought the images into Capture One, did some levels editing and that's about it. I didn't even bother to Photoshop the bags out from under my eyes. Hey, I have a 3 month old. Cut me some slack! The results are below.

Wide shot of yours truly with the Nikkor 50mm 1.4D

Wide shot of yours truly with the Sigma 50mm 1.4 ART

What about a closer shot where the bokeh differences will be more pronounced? Glad you asked!

Close shot of yours truly (yikes) with Nikkor 50mm 1.4D

Close shot of yours truly (double yikes) with Sigma 50mm 1.4 ART

Conclusions

The Sigma is worlds sharper. We knew that. But that's not what this experiment is about. The bokeh on these two lenses is, of course, different. But lets be honest here; If you were to see both of these images on a wall you'd be hard-pressed to pick between them based on the bokeh. You'd be paying attention to (for better or worse) the subject. The bokeh just isn't enough of a factor in the images to be important.

As photographers we always want the latest and greatest. That’s natural. But I think we’ve become a bit zealous about things that just don’t have the weight we attribute to them. I’m not saying bokeh is a unicorn that doesn’t exist. It totally does! There is a marked difference between the out of focus area of different lenses. But why should we care so much? The difference between a bokeh crazy lens and a normal run-of-the-mill lens is so slight at normal viewing distances as to be laughable.

But, “Hans,” you say, “My new 50mm has luscious, creamy bokeh and it cost me $1,500! I want to be able to throw everything out of focus and that out of focus area needs to be puuuuurty!” Well great. Why do you want to throw everything out of focus? Is there an actual reason or do you just think it would look cool? How does the background relate to the subject? Hey, I get it, sometimes when you’re on the go and can’t find a suitable environment you need to throw the background completely out of focus to hide the closet you were forced to shoot in. But does that tiny bit of difference in the character of the out of focus area really make a difference? I’m talking about to the end viewer, not other pixel peepers. It doesn’t; and if it does, then chances are you really need to focus more on the content of the portrait. What does it say about the subject if the out of focus area is actually able to distract from it?

Don’t believe me? Take a look at some of the master portrait photographers of our time: Annie Leibovitz, Mark Seliger, Helmut Newton, Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, Joe McNally, Mary Ellen Mark... The list goes on and on. Do a quick Google search on any of them and tell me if you give a rats patoot about the bokeh or lack thereof in their images. It’s all about the subject.

How about some crops?

Crop of bokeh produced in wide shot with Nikkor 50mm 1.4D

Crop of bokeh produced in wide shot with Sigma 50mm 1.4 ART

And the close shots...

A crop of the bokeh produced by a Nikkor 50mm 1.4D

A crop of the bokeh produced by a Sigma 50mm 1.4 ART

Are You an Artist or a Technician?

Of course, the answer to that question should be "both." I have made tons of crappy portraits in my time. Not one of them was because of bokeh. It's because I failed as a photographer to leave an impression, even on myself. Put the focus where you want it and then worry about the feeling of the portrait. Worry about the relationship between you and subject. Worry about exposure, weather, the environment, narrative, and all the other things that truly make or break a portrait. Stop using your lenses as a crutch and realize that as long as they are putting the focus where you want it, they are doing their job.

It’s easy to get up close to a person (or far away with a tele), open up that lens, snap a few and call it art, then wonder why the image is forgettable. It’s because we’re worried so much about the characteristics of the lens (or camera body, lights, modifiers, etc.) and not about truly creating that special something.

Bokeh is nice. If you can afford the great lenses that happen to have nice bokeh and are razor sharp, go for it. But if you don’t cultivate all those other things that make a good image, you’re just putting lipstick on a pig anyway. 

Hans Rosemond's picture

Hans Rosemond has been known to fall down a lot on set. Thank goodness for the wireless revolution, else Hans might have to learn to photograph in a full body cast. His subjects thank him for not falling down on them.
He is looking to document the every day person in an extraordinary way.

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56 Comments
Previous comments

No element should be underrated or overrated.
There, would come another post about "SHARPNESS". and another post about "Wide Open". Then, the question is: if you dont care about "wide open", sharpness, bokeh, and colour why would you buy expensive primes?
An 50 1.8D, 85 1.8D would do just fine when stepping down at 2.8, and if you are good at Post-processing.
If my portraiture is an 2.8 type, then any argument with "sharpness and bokeh at wide open" would be useless.
Same thing goes with other's type of photography.

This seems to be an ongoing debate, at least within the photographer community.. "is Bokeh REAL photography and art or can anyone do it by just taking an out of focus shot of anything?" I am on the side that says Bokeh....GOOD BOKEH is art in and of itself and takes real talent, practice and skill to take compelling Bokeh shots.

Just like ANYONE can take a portrait, there is a big difference between the shot my 14yr old son would get and a seasoned professional. I would argue (mainly after seeing hundreds of examples) that there is a big difference between the shots a experienced Bokeh shooter gets versus the average person.

So if you are only looking at bokeh as the background to a shot, then NO the lens does not matter that much as far as its bokeh ability, but people like me who are looking for the high end Bokeh lens are not looking for what it can do bokeh wise as part of another shot like say a portrait....we care about what it can do Bokeh wise when shooting fine art bokeh

oh sure! That's exactly why this article is aimed towards portrait photographers. Who am I to say what constitutes art? If your subject IS the bokeh, then yeah, absolutely get the right tool you need to get the look you want.

May I ask about the cam ranger that you used to take the photo? Can you focus on your ipad while you are posing for a self portrait? thanks!
Karen
www.KarenVaismanPhotography.com

Here comes the pretention. I grew up in a house with over a hundred mostly famous fine art prints that my Dad bought in the 70's for peanuts. He has connections and friends high up in the fine art photography business. I've been to gallery after gallery after release show after exhibit. I've never once heard anyone mention bokeh or blurry bits or whatever it's called in nearly 40 years.

Really appreciate this article. I am in the very earliest weeks of starting to use a Sony A7 and have been watching dozens of youtube videos in the last 2 weeks, trying to really get familiar with settings and methods, understanding the uses of each lens, preferred lenses for what type of setting, and I keep seeing all these discussions about bokeh this and bokeh that. But I bought my camera with the intent of mainly capturing my kid playing, or on trips with her, and other family events. None of my family is going to be like "nice picture but you should have had more bokeh on that one" lol! Half the time, I'm taking pictures traveling and so I'm taking a picture of family in front of an important background, whether it be a landscape or a more local place like a building or memorial, or at home in front of a Christmas tree. Or I want a sharp picture of my daughter on a grandparents lap, but would like the grandparent a few feet back to still be clear. So occasionally a slightly blurry background might make sense to me, but not typically. I'm still picking my initial lenses, but I'm leaning pretty heavily towards ending up with a 20/F1.8, a 55/F1.8, and either a 28-200/F2.8 or 24-105 F4 zoom, and staying with those for the first few years, and saving up for a 100-400. The 55 would mainly be for taking pictures of my daughter at daycare so all other kids in the background are blurred--which is about the only time I'd care much about the background being blurry "enough". I could stay out of her way and capture her doing her own thing. The 20 would be for pictures of family in front of landscapes, or other pictures inside (thanksgiving, Christmas, birthday parties, reunions). And the zoom would be more outdoor stuff like at the beach or the zoo or camping or maybe soccer games and things like that (hence the F4 being a consideration). The 100-400 would be for further distances like an eagle in the distance taken from a boat, or for something like a cruise to Alaska. I know the 35mm is a core one for everyone but based on the videos I keep seeing comparing 35, 50, and 85, I feel like the 20 and 55 would capture anything I would have otherwise used the 35 for, and I could be close enough with the 55 to get what I want. Anyway! yeah I don't care about the exact degree of bokeh, and usually would not care if there is none lol.