Alessia

I like the colors, with the orange and blue shades. The pose...not sure, looks like she is practice posing for a nude shoot. The eyes don't appear overdone. The red rubber band or whatever on her wrist is slightly distracting, but that might just be nitpicking. Nice shot.

As you note, you are a beginner, as in deed were we all at some time. So some timely advice to make big improvements, easily. Once you have cracked them we can no doubt provide further guidance.

1, your key light ( the sun ) is shining almost vertically down onto your subject. This is responsible for the hard light effect on her face. The light is not being diffused by cloud so is very hard, producing deep shadows and bright highlights, on her nose and hands for instance, and crisp edges between the areas of light and shade. This is rarely a good look. So we have one problem right away, intense, hard vertical light. Solution, shoot earlier in the day, very early in the summer time, or late in the day. At these times the sun is warmer, softer and nearer to horizontal than to verical. This time after sunrise or before sunset is often called magic hour. It is brief, it is beautiful and there is no better light, hence the name. The shadows it produces are less deep, they are more elongated (more attractive), not vertical, and the highlights are soft and glow. Mid-day is utterly bereft of these advantages. Magic hour does have other advantages, often there are fewer people cluttering up the scene you are shooting, they are still in bed or having drinks and dinner.

2 The bridge is almost 90 degrees to your line of sight, which cuts the scene in two and flattens the image. Photographs are 2D but look better if they give the impression of the 3D realworld, so having the bridge at an angle, one end near and the other much further away, creates a 3D effect and can also draw the eye to something of interest in the distance, as a bonus, sometimes.

Finally, pay attention to white balance. Here we have a green cast to the scene, which if done for artistic effect is one thing, assuming it works of course,. But I guess that as a beginner it is an oversight/mistake, we have all made. Don't trust auto white balancing systems, if you have the choice. This is a big subject but as a general rule of thumb, set the camera to some where between 5500 degrees kelvin and 6000 degrees for daylight shoots. The higher the degrees you select the more warmth your picture will have. In atificial light situations it is more difficult to know what to suggest as artificial light varies so very much. Here your auto white balance might well work fine. But for your control learn how to do a manual white balance or dial in a temperature like 3000 degrees, which is in the right range for most of the tungsten lights of old, and works reasonably with many other light sources. Ideally you should learn how to take a manual white balance set up with your camera, for these situations. Remember artificaila light can look better if not totally corrected. Old fashioned tungsten light; in a bar, restaurant or house interior can look better if it looks a bit orangy. So experiment and think about, do I want acuracy or beauty and how do I see my final image with a nutral look or warmth, for instance. Some streetlights are very very redorange, sodium, and others are very green cyal, mercury vapour, etc. Often they look good uncorrected, having been shot at a normal tungsten colour temperature, 3000 degrees or there abouts, this creates a photogrphic reproduction that looks simlar to how the actual lights appear to our eyes. Orange or green/cyan for example.

Best of luck.