Modern digital cameras are remarkably complex machines, and there are a lot of parameters and settings you can adjust that will improve both the quality of your images and your ability to get the shot you want. This helpful video tutorial will show you seven camera settings (some well known and some not as obvious) you should consider changing to improve your photography experience.
Coming to you from Saurav Sinha, this great video will show you seven camera settings worth changing to improve both your workflow and the quality of your images. My personal favorite lesser-used setting is the black and white picture profile. By turning this on, your entire viewfinder (if you are shooting mirrorless, use the back screen if shooting with a DSLR) will go black and white. This can be a great way to learn to see the light in a scene and the interplay of contrast between different areas, which can go a long way toward helping you create more compelling and impactful images. And don't worry, as long as you are shooting in raw, you will still have the normal full-color image to work with in post. Check out the video above for the full rundown from Sinha.
Not a word about sRGB or Adobe RGB? In fact this THE most important setting according to what your photo is done for.
With raw files, it doesn't matter.
So it does matter since the dude said that you, digital photographers, should choose the double frame mode, 1 jpeg, 1 raw.
No, he said if you need to send files immediately to clients for short listings, as an example, then he recommends raw+jpg. See timecode 1:06. He doesn't shoot in that mode all the time. See timecode 1:34
So it means that you have to shoot both jpeg and raw because if you're sending jpegs to clients, it means that you're working for them so that you'll need your raw files. Who's gonna shoot only jpeg? Then come the client saying "ok nice, I want you to use that photo, that one and that one". Opps sorry, I just have them in jpeg because "for clients I only shoot jpeg". No, for clients you send them jpeg but it doesn't mean at all that you only shoot jpeg.
The sRGB or AdobeRGB setting is only useful for the JPEGs created by the camera. It does NOT affect the RAW files at all. His approach is to use the RAW files in postproduction. So I guess the setting is not relevant to him and would have made the video a little more complicated.
IF you send the JPEG files ->created in the camera<- to clients you should use "sRGB". But for example in my workflow I don't need the camera JPEG files at all.
I create in LR or C1P the preview files and they are converted to sRGB anyway. I just reduce them to 2500px on the longest side, add a watermark and push them thru JPEG mini. So that the client gets "revieweable" photos and still has very low file sizes.
The explanation of auto rotate doesn't make sense. In order to view horizontal images fullscreen and the right way up you have to rotate the camera otherwise you are simply looking at the image on it's side if you turn off auto rotate and are holding the camera horizontally. Rotating has never been a problem for me. Still, each to their own.
Alex, that took you a while to find such an awesome, sorry, this time it is just great, video, didn't it? Do you do that on purpose?
1. uncompressed RAW: use compressed, lossless RAW (all Nikons are able to do that). Save space, longer continuous shooting.
2. Leave auto rotate on and just turn the camera.
3. Use the picture profile you do like. Because you are shooting RAW it only effects the JPGs. If you use the histograms, use "flat". It alters your image the least and therefore shows the most correct histogram. But be aware, that when you change your white balance, it changes the histogram as well.
4. skipped, that was enough for me.
1. I would use also compressed, lossless RAW if you shoot a lot of photos under controlled conditions. e.g. a fashion photo shoot with strobes.
BUT if you shoot a lot of photos under very bad lighting conditions with high ISO I would use lossess uncompressed any time because sometimes you see small improvements there. Depends on what you expect from your photos and where they are displayed and what kind of postproduction is done to them. But it is definitely noticeable in postproduction (which I do) for unit still photography for film where you normally have the worst conditions.
2. At least in my Z7 the "Rotate Tall" must be "OFF" if you want turn the camera and see the image in full screen. If it is "ON" the turning of the camera has no effect and I still see portait mode "within" landscape mode with black pillars on the side. Maybe your camera works different?
3. I agree. For a most accurate histogram I use only flat profile. That is when your workflow is pure RAW postproduction anyway. Sometimes I use - like in the video - B&W so that the RAW has a B&W preset. But one can change that of course in post.
4. I would also deactivate sharpening in the camera. I would do in post. Always.
5. Playback Options you can do to your liking. There are a lot of settings.
6. I use Custom file naming a lot because you have much more overview of your images when they have an invidual file naming. Most people don't do that and it can create confusion in postproduction or you have to rename the files afterwards. I highly recommend it.
7. I have the framing grids turned on mostly. But I wish Nikon would offer more options. You just have ONE grid with 3 vertical and 3 horizontal lines or nothing. On my Fuji I could choose between 2v2h and 3h3v.
I would even prefer more like in Capture One Pro where you have additionally "Golden Ratio" and "Fibonacci Spiral". To have a selection of grids would be very welcome for me.
All in all I agree with most of the tips in the video and already use them. I don't really understand the comment you made to Alex...I am not sure if you liked the video or not. ;)