Recreating Soft Window Light for Nighttime Portraits in a Dark Alleyway

The guys at SLR Lounge shot these two portraits in a dark alley, demonstrating how it’s possible to capture portraits that look like they were taken in the daytime, even at night.

With an aim to recreate sunlight, the team assembled a particular setup. Using a Profoto B1X with a Magmod modifier and focus diffuser, a cheap, white, translucent fabric was installed directly in front of their light source. In total, there were three different layers of diffusion, each creating a different effect.

The larger the light source in relation to the subject, the softer the light’s going to be.

Using a shutter speed of 1/200, an aperture of f/4.0, and an ISO of 400, the photographer is able to shoot a dramatic portrait, with half of his subject’s face illuminated and the rest shadowed. Upon adding the first of the two fabric layers, the shadows appear noticeably softer. The inclusion of the second sheet, however, makes a dramatic difference. Using the same camera settings, the light photographs much more naturally.

The two-sheet setup also creates some spill onto the backdrop, which is amended by using a large reflector in order to retain a dark background. Simple!

Check out the video to see the full setup and results in action.

Jack Alexander's picture

A 28-year-old self-taught photographer, Jack Alexander specialises in intimate portraits with musicians, actors, and models.

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7 Comments

Hmmm. What is the point of the middle layer, other than loosing a stop of light? The softness of the light should entirely be determined by the apparent size of the last layer of fabric in relation to the subject.

Depending on the fabric, the first layer of diffusion may exhibit a hotspot that essentially prevents the entire surface from being a part of the diffused area - even the largest diffuser is no good if the central area radiates most of the diffused light.

Larger softboxes often have two layers of diffusion for the same reason.

In my experience a well-behaved reflector on your flash head will often alleviate the need for a second layer of diffusion by creating a clearly defined and evenly illuminated area, and you can actually use the fact that the illuminated area is round to your advantage by having some nicer (IMHO) catchlights.

Yes, I can see myself playing with light gradients on a diffuser or on a sheet of PE. But a softbox, two c-stands with hanging bed sheets and an assistent holding a flag... Neither practical nor portable in my opinion.

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So instead of carrying a 150cm umbrella softbox worth £70 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=150cm+umbrella+softbox&ref=nb_sb_noss) and weighing about 2.6kg, I am going to get 2 C-stands with grip head plus holding arms worth £190 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-Adjustable-Reflector-Monolight-Photograp...) weighing about 20kg and the fabric.
Plus get another person to help carry everything...

Just get the 150cmsoftbox and bring it in close to the subject. It also comes with a grid so there is no need to flag off the background.

Am I missing something here?

Well, yeah - the 150 cm softbox will never give you the smooth gradients that a scrim will. It’s not that the softbox is bad, bit it cannot do what a 2x1 meter scrim can do - it’s pure physics.

That being said, a 150 cm softbox of good quality definitely does not come cheap compared to a standard reflector, a couple of stands and a scrim. 😉

This is an absolutely ridiculous setup if you are shooting off the cuff and there are much easier methods to achieve similar lighting. Sticking a couple of rags in front of an expensive light and modifier kinda defeats the purpose. How long did it take to set that up? Not practical imo.