The fashion industry is home to some of the most dynamic and fluid trends that the world has ever seen. No doubt, the existence of this ever-changing and highly creative environment is mainly as a result of the diversity and creative uniqueness of the individuals that constitute it. However, even with this seemingly all-inclusive and globally encompassing genre, there is a prominent neglect that seems to be growing even further: the underrepresentation of black female photographers.
Racial divide and marginalization has been a big problem in most fields and even more so in fashion photography. One may argue that this issue spans across all other aspects of black women participation in the fashion industry and there definitely would be a point there. However, the contribution of black women to fashion and beauty photography has brought about great innovation at both ends of the camera and it is a wonder that there are so many of these talented individuals flying under the radar with very little representation.
Photography by Joyanne Panton
A vital point that must be noted is a severe lack of appreciable participation in the industry as a whole as a direct result of the marginalization that these woman face. Not only do they lack a strong platform that provides more opportunities for them in all areas of the industry, black female photographers seem to lack the proper exposure necessary for them to get their work noticed by the larger audiences. Even more interesting to note is the remarkable talent of the few black photographers in the industry. Any in-depth research will reveal a good number of black women who are doing groundbreaking work in their functional spaces and possess a strong portfolio of projects under their sleeves.
Photography by Letura Idigima
Photography by Kia Caldwell
Why then do the big photography companies and other major players in the industry not shine enough light on this demographic? And why does their work seem to be hidden among their fashion photographer counterparts? Why aren't they standing on the forefront as ambassadors or speakers for any of the photographic companies or community in general? Whatever the case may be, the amazing talent that black women have to offer has proven to be a tasteful and revolutionary touch that cannot be ignored. Bringing more notice to this faction would require the creation of strong platforms for these voices to be heard and for their works to be showcased. This helps to provide an avenue for proper recognition while creating prospects for opportunity and progress. By doing this, these women not only get to learn more about themselves but also find support and motivation in one another by fostering a professional community of like minds.
I did months of researching to compile a list of black female fashion photographers. These ladies are talented and deserve a bit of recognition. I am happy I am able to give them a platform to showcase their talents and work.
All images used with permission.
Dear Ms. Cole,
As I am composing this post there are already 130 comments on your article. I did not read them all. Sadly, all too many times any thought of having something to offer to such a conversation evaporates in the heat of the commentary challenging everything from your basic premise to the motivations behind the piece.
What I would like to do is challenge you and your editors to do more than simply define the problem, make a list, and wring your hands over what can be done to address these issues. This site has the power to do so and to do it directly by establishing a series of articles featuring the photographers on your list and their back stories.
I, for one, would like to know what compelled these women to pick up a camera in the first place. To know how they persevered in the face of everything from the salesman’s, ‘That’s a big camera for a girl,’ to their treatment by their various agents and editors. Then, if they do get the job, how they manage their shoot without becoming the, ‘B***h with the camera’.
It would seem to me that a lot of the blather above would vanish in a sea of empathy for what these women have endured, as well as the quality of the results they’ve managed to produce.
Just a thought.
It could work…
This is exactly what needs to happen to take this from an opinion piece to a factual article. I hope all of this debate will spark an interest in Dana to go deeper with the topic and prove her point through data and personal stories from others in the industry.
Hiya Kurt,
Thank you for your reply..
I will certainly try to go more indepth with this topic on future articles. This was my first..so I am sure it could have been better.
However, even in going more indepth and sharing stories from myself and other photographers on my list, will not change the minds of those who think all is well.
Even sharing one account from my personal journey as a photographer in a comment above was met with a commet of ‘rumored hearsay’ and not believing it happened the way I said it did.
butttttt, I have never let the naysayers stop me before 😃
Thank you for your advice and tips !
Dear Dana, I realize I’m the 4323th comment on your article, but do want to mention some things.
Yesterday I was talking to a model I work with regularly and since she is black (and I’m not) and racial or cultural prejudism is something that interests me in general we were talking about ‘black in fashion’
I do think the industry is changing, now with Edward Enninful at Brittish Vogue and Pat mcGrath being the most inflentual make up artist in the world I think the industry is opening up.
However, what I dislike, I that I notice that people start working with black models using black ‘styling’ etc. because now it’s hip, with the latest gucci campaign etc.
Photographers should work with different ethnic models because it inspired them, not because it’s the cool thing to do now.
Personally I think society is changing, getting to be more balanced, but I think it needs time, so changes are because of merit, not forced (i’m not saying black fashion photographers are no good, just that it needs perseverance and time)
I’ve always thought that fashion industry is very gay male dominated, I’ve been working in fashion / and fashion photography for over 15 years and I have some straight male friends that complain they did not get the job because they are straight (to the face as well)
I don’t know if this comment is still very coherent, i hope you understand what I’m trying to comment.
BTW. I am sure skin color affects how people perceive you, I got into fashion because it fascinates me that changing the way you look will change your reality.
Wearing a suit makes people treat you differently from if you were wearing tight shorts, same person different reality.
So..., yes, black, white, gay, cute, tall or fat, especially in fashion it DOES matter
This isn't at all taking a side, as I'm a black male. I just don't really, for one, see any examples listed to make me go with it. Not only that, but if I'm being honest, I know of maybe 2-3 black female photographers - not only the "working", but just in general. So if I had to give a response today, maybe it's more of a question of numbers. Less women there are, the less women you'll see from.
For me, I would imagine that if there were an issue with race, that black men would be on the same level as black women. And I can't speak for everyone, but while it did take a bit to get "on", after grinding it out like everyone else, I'm working now as a black male.