The Orton effect brings a dreamy appearance to an image. This effect, named after photographer Michael Orton, is nearly always added in post-processing. Wouldn’t it be wonderful to add this effect in-camera? This can be accomplished with a double exposure.
In the mid-1980s, photographer Michael Orton invented a technique that used the blending of two completely different photos of the same scene. One image was sharp and full of detail, while the other was low in detail, often completely out of focus. He used slide film to achieve this effect, combining two slides that could then be projected or printed. It was also called the Orton slide sandwich.
It was a simple effect that gave photos a distinctive feel, adding a glow and soft tone. Orton also experimented by combining different subjects or textures over a normal photo. He even combined monotone images and color images.
Using the Original Orton Slide Sandwich Method
Although the Orton effect is quite easy to achieve using the slide sandwich technique, digital photography makes it much easier to control the outcome. I believe the best way to achieve the effect is to take two photos: one in focus and the other out of focus. This is similar to the original slide sandwich technique, but adding the two photos is done with software.
Both images can be overlaid in Photoshop or similar layer-based editing software. By using the blending option “Lighter” or “Screen,” both photos merge together, resulting in the Orton effect. The strength of the effect can be tuned at the moment the out-of-focus image is taken. It is also possible to reduce the opacity of the out-of-focus layer in Photoshop, which offers complete control over the strength of the Orton effect during post-processing.
Achieving the Effect With Just One Image
In most cases, the effect is digitally achieved with only one single in-focus image. The out-of-focus effect is created by applying a strong Gaussian blur filter to a duplicate layer, offering a similar effect but not quite the same. From that step onward, the effect is achieved and controlled with the same steps as if you had two separate images.
Using Lightroom Masks for the Orton Effect
Another option for creating the soft glow characteristic of the Orton effect is to use a mask in Lightroom. Dial the Clarity slider down to minus 30 or more. This will add a nice glow to the image. It will also reduce details, which may not be desired. To counteract this, you can increase the detail with the Texture slider.
Working with a mask instead of directly on the image allows you to reduce the effect locally. Just use the subtract option in the mask. Another benefit is the separation of the effect from regular editing, which offers greater flexibility.
The Real Double Exposure Method
There is another way to add the Orton effect to your image. This method brings the complete process of combining two photos into the field. It makes it a conscious process, which feels less like a post-processing gimmick, if one might call it that.
The process involves using an in-camera double exposure technique. Your camera must have this capability, and many models do, offering a wide range of options. The Orton slide sandwich, which I find to be a fitting name for this double exposure technique, can be achieved using the in-camera blending option “Lighten.” You can also use the “Add” option, but this may result in overexposure if you’re not careful.
Take the first photo in focus after activating the multiple exposure option. This will result in a normal photo, sharp and full of detail. The next step is to set the camera to manual focus and turn the focus ring until the subject is out of focus. You can check the amount of blur on-screen since the second image will be superimposed onto the original photo. If desired, the exposure can be changed as well. If the effect is to your liking, press the shutter release for the second photo.
If you’re using a digital DSLR, use the live view option. This can be considered the mirrorless function of a DSLR, offering similar options to a mirrorless camera.
Multiple Exposure in JPEG or Raw
Most cameras that offer a multiple exposure option will save the result as a JPEG photo. If you are used to a raw workflow, this can be a downside. However, modern in-camera JPEGs have excellent image quality, so it may be worth accepting this limitation. Minor processing is possible with JPEGs, if needed.
Some cameras save the result in raw format. For example, the Canon EOS R5 offers this option, but you’ll need to check if your camera also offers this possibility. If your camera saves the two original photos used for the multiple exposure, you’ll retain the ability to combine them in Photoshop if the JPEG isn’t to your liking.
Why Bother When the Orton Effect Can Be Done Digitally?
The Orton effect is easy to create in layer-based editing software like Photoshop or with a mask in Lightroom. So why go through the difficulties and possible downsides of in-camera multiple exposures?
The answer lies in the creativity of photographing in the moment. If you find a scene that suits the Orton effect, you can apply it immediately and see the result on the LCD screen. This makes the effect a deliberate artistic decision rather than a post-processing gimmick.
If you like the Orton effect, it doesn’t matter which method you prefer. In the end, it’s all about the final result. The photo won’t be better simply because one method was used over another. However, I believe photographing with the end result in mind is always better than relying solely on post-processing in Lightroom or Photoshop. Double exposure can be a great way to add the Orton effect.
If you like the Orton effect, which method of creating the effect would you prefer? Would you consider in-camera multiple exposure for this? Please let me know in the comments below.
Easy to do in camera with my Olympus bodies. Compose the scene, take the shot (shot 1). Now focus to infinity and take the shot again (shot 2). Hit playback button and select shot 1. Choose “Image Overlay”, then 2 image merge. Select image 2 then adjust exposure of each to your liking so that the merged image has the desired look. Easy. The resulting composite has semi sharp elements of the existing composition overlayed with soft colors from the out of focus frame. Somewhat surreal.
Interesting.
I've tried it with my Olympus and indeed, it works. The overlay possibilities are limited, but it works.
Great article. I've used this technique for years with negatives but never knew what it was called, or that there was a backstory.
More recently, I've been doing this with my Fuji as double exposures throwing the base exposure slightly off focus and flagging portions of the frame.
Flagging portions of the frame is interesting. Doesn't it show the flag in the final image? What do you use, a dark flag, white, or something else. I'm definitely going to experiment with that. Thanks for the idea. :)
I use a black Polaroid card held at an angle or a 1-2 stop graduated filter. The areas that are flagged during the first exposure will just show invisible (or greatly reduced) when layered with the second. :)
Pretty cool! Nice article, thank you.
You're welcome. Glad you liked it.