Long exposure photography is a fantastic way to enhance your skills and capture stunning images. If you're not already incorporating it into your routine, you're missing out on some great photo opportunities.
Coming to you from Anthony Gugliotta, this insightful video teaches techniques for long exposure photography. Long exposure photography involves keeping the shutter open for extended periods, from half a second to even 30 seconds or more. Typically, a tripod is essential to avoid the natural shakes that come from handholding your camera. Even with image stabilization, these longer shutter speeds necessitate a stable base to get sharp photos. The video demonstrates how a three-second handheld shot, despite artistic potential, fails to deliver the desired clarity compared to one taken with a tripod.
Tripods are crucial for long exposures, but they must be stable. The video shows that even slight vibrations, like those from a wooden bridge, can introduce blur. Gugliotta shares tips on securing your tripod, such as jamming it into soft ground or weighing it down with a bag. For rocky terrain, building a base with stones can help. Another tip is to avoid extending the center column and opt for tripods with fewer segments, which are generally more stable.
The video also discusses shooting long exposures during the day, where you might face challenges with too much light. Lowering your ISO and closing down your aperture can help, but sometimes it's not enough. This is where ND filters come in, reducing the amount of light entering the camera. Gugliotta highlights the use of a 10-stop or 15-stop ND filter for daytime long exposures. He even shows how a 30-second exposure with an ND filter can turn a bustling scene into a serene image with motion blur.
Image stabilization is another topic covered. Gugliotta explains that while it can be helpful for shorter exposures, it can cause alignment issues in longer ones due to the sensor's movement. For astrophotography or composite shots, turning off stabilization ensures consistent frame alignment. He suggests giving the sensor time to settle after any bumps to avoid shifting during exposure.
For night or low-light photography, ND filters aren't necessary. Instead, you might need to increase your ISO and use lenses with wider apertures. Gugliotta prefers lenses with f/2.8 or even f/1.4 apertures to allow more light. Using live view or mirror lock-up in DSLRs can minimize vibrations from the mirror movement. Covering the optical viewfinder also prevents light leaks during long exposures.
For exposures longer than 30 seconds, bulb mode is essential. This allows you to control the shutter manually for extended periods, perfect for capturing the movement of clouds or star trails. He emphasizes the importance of having a static and a moving element in your frame to create compelling long exposures.Check out the video above for the full rundown from Gugliotta.
IF you're using film, check out "the laws of reciprocity failure", where your original asa/iso is no longer relevant. It needs to be changed DOWNWARD to a lower rating number before metering. There are charts showing the procedure.
Look for articles on long-exposure "Noise Reduction" for images done on digital cameras.