If you want to improve your photography, experimenting with new techniques to achieve more creative and interesting results is the way to go. I did just that recently while out doing street photography by playing with a slow shutter speed while shooting handheld.
One of my favorite ways to relax on a weekend is to go for a walk around a city and do some street photography. It’s a very popular genre these days, but so many street images we see on social media all look the same. So I thought recently, how could I try creating images that were a little different, a little more creative and interesting?
Modern cameras have great internal stabilization, so I thought I should start using it in mine instead of using a tripod.

Settings and Filters
On a day trip to Toronto, and after a little experimenting, I discovered 1/8 second was the right exposure for the overcast conditions I had to work with. I wanted to shoot people walking on the streets or inside interesting buildings and didn’t want too much blur. If my exposure was too slow, people would fade away like ghosts and barely be noticeable. Too fast, and the people would look like they were simply out of focus.
You set your camera around the shutter speed. I set my ISO to 100, my lowest setting, and my aperture to f/16. At these higher f-values—smaller apertures—one must be wary of diffraction. Because I was shooting with a monochrome camera, I had a yellow filter on, which lost me one stop of light. Typically, if the conditions are bright, to achieve good exposure at such a slow shutter speed, an ND filter might be required. A 3-stop ND is a good choice, but I didn’t need one in the overcast conditions today.


A Few Things Worth Noting
- When someone walks across the frame, the motion blur is more exaggerated than if they were walking toward or away from the camera.
- Someone moving closer to the camera in the foreground is going to blur more than someone in the background.
- I found I got the best results shooting people within about 10–15 feet of the camera. Cars could be further back because they move much faster.
Three Variations of This Technique
Find a Static Object
Pick out a person standing still, with other people or cars moving around them. You’re holding your camera still.

Choose a Great Composition
Find something like an architecturally interesting building or an entranceway that acts as a frame, or a scene with dramatic lighting and contrast. Then wait for someone to walk into or across that composition. It could be one person or an entire crowd of people. You’re holding your camera still.

Choose a Subject to Follow
Find a person or moving object and follow them with your camera as you shoot. This is known as panning, and you can try moving the camera at the same speed as the subject to keep them in focus while blurring the background. Also, try moving the camera faster or slower to see what results you get.

Of course, you can take this much further and delve into the world of intentional camera movement (ICM) by twisting the camera as you take the exposure or moving it vertically. It can be a lot of creative fun with unusual and interesting results.
I’m going to be doing a lot more experimenting like this. It’s good to push yourself outside your comfort zone and try new techniques.
How about you? Is this a technique you’ve tried?
Simon, I really enjoyed this exploration of slow shutter techniques—especially the idea of using it to create more dynamic and unconventional street photography. I had fun experimenting with long exposures last summer, mostly for fashion and editorial work, but I love how you’ve applied it to urban scenes in a way that feels fresh and visually engaging.
Your breakdown of different approaches—static framing, layered compositions, and panning—reminds me of how motion can be a powerful storytelling tool, whether it’s capturing the fluidity of a model’s movement or the controlled chaos of a busy street. One variation I’ve enjoyed is combining slow shutter speeds with flash to freeze part of the subject while leaving trails of motion behind them. It can add an almost cinematic quality, especially in low-light environments.
https://tocatlian.blog/2024/10/19/streets-colors-motion-blur/
https://tocatlian.blog/2024/10/19/moonlight-on-moving-waters/
Paul Tocatlian
Kisau Photography
www.kisau.com
Not to be rude (just curious):
Are your answers to articles at fstoppers AI-generated?
I take my own pictures and write my own comments—no robots involved! But if people keep assuming otherwise, I might just switch to “Cool pic” and call it a day :-)
Hi Paul :-)
"People" don´t. I do.
Don´t involve "people" - I am me :-)
This is my personal view and opinion.
Of course you take your own pictures. And they are nice. Respect!
But to me your comments to articles at fstoppers seems to be all AI-generated.
Words without meaning.
Did you see what kind of job ChatGTP did to comment on the article - and how much it is similar to your "review"?
I don´t have a clue about what "Cool Pic" is. But cool pics are, well, cool. And every day is called a day. I suppose.
Decency, please.
Greetings / Papsoe
This is for Paul.
Copy-pasted the article "This Slow Shutter Speed Technique Is Worth Trying" to ChatGPT and added “Write A positive review”, “What it does to me” and “Include my own thoughts”.
Ended up with this:
“Simon, this was such an inspiring read! Your approach to slow shutter speed photography adds a fresh and creative dimension to street photography, making it feel more dynamic and engaging. I really appreciate the way you broke down different techniques—whether it’s holding the camera static, choosing a strong composition, or experimenting with panning.
Your insights on settings, filters, and the effect of motion blur at different distances are incredibly helpful. The way you framed the movement of people and cars, especially with elements like scaffolding and steam, really enhances the storytelling aspect of the images. It’s a fantastic reminder that sometimes, stepping outside our comfort zone and trying something new can lead to truly unique results.
Reading this has completely shifted my perspective on street photography. It makes me want to grab my camera and experiment right away, to see my surroundings in a new way and capture movement in a more artistic, intentional manner. I’ve dabbled with long exposures before, mostly in fashion and editorial settings, but seeing how you’ve applied it to urban environments in such a fresh way has really sparked new ideas for me. I’m particularly intrigued by the idea of blending slow shutter with flash to freeze part of the subject while keeping motion trails—it’s something I’d love to explore further.
Your work not only inspires but also challenges me to be more creative and open-minded with my photography. Looking forward to seeing more of your experiments, Simon!”
Does it ring a bell?
My vomit has NOTHING to do about Simon’s article, which is well-written, good and for sure interesting, but more about ridiculous postings/comments for the cause of self-promoting.
I personally wouldn’t give a shit about a “nice” review written by an IA-engine.
Did you ever stop to think that possibly ChatGPT was using Paul's reply as content to form its reply, instead of what you assume to be the other way around?
I NEVER thought of that.
I´m not that stupid.
Off course they didn´t. They don´t use individuals as guidelines for their general AI-suggestions.
All his - Paul´s - comments are more or less the same. Haven´t you noticed?
You can do the your own research by feeding the words of an F-Stopper article to ChatGPT - or a another AI-engine - and ask it to do a positive review.
What really pisses me off is comments not well meant, just to promote yourself, like people posting comments including lots of the own photos (always more or less the same photos).
I don´t the world to be a complete fakery :-)
Greetings from Denmark
Jacob
I have tried a wide span of slow shutter techniques. I love the way the camera can depict the essence of motion, either by creating contrast with static elements or withing the image as a whole.
My most recent favorite has been a technique I've been developing over the last year or so, one that I call 'followICM'. ICM in itself of course relies on (camera) movement at its core.
A sample of results can be seen in my profile (https://fstoppers.com/profile/217887), and through galleries on my website. I also have a tutorial available for any that might be interested in understanding the technique.
https://www.alanbrownphotography.com/human-form-gallery
Thanks for sharing your images Alan, this is a great use of the technique, you've ended up with some wonderful results here!
Thanks so much for your kind response Simon!
Wow! Those images are amazing, they have a painterly look about them. I have done a few ICM shots myself.
Thanks for your kind words Keith. ICM always offers interesting results and I find the experience a lot of fun.
These resemble paintings to me !
That’s very kind of you Emma. Thanks for your words of encouragement.
Glad he said "at least for me." I would think the shutter speed would depend on light, speed of subject and how much blur an individual wants. No single setting for all subjects and conditions plus your own opinion for what works for you. Same for the ND filter. Use what works for you in any given condition.
Good point Mike. My take on it is that he picked a speed that provided decent initial results and kept that as a constant as he experimented.
In my own case, many of my (handheld) shots lay in the 1-3 second range. As you say, it really depends on what’s in the frame and the result you wish to achieve.
I always say something is my opinion, and I'm neither right or wrong. Unless, of course, I'm right. I'm not a dictator you know! 😆 Actually I did mention in the conditions and low light, and the use of a yellow filter, and my desired shutter speed, meant an ND filter wasn't required. That wouldn't be the case in bright sunlight though.
I want to say thank you for this good article and video and add some extra thoughts. Combining camera movement with a long shutter speed and effective stabilization can produce fascinating and full-of-detail images, resulting in more abstract and geometric compositions.
Appreciate the comment Alvin. I like how you've really pushed this technique, I need to do this myself next time. Cheers!
Such a well put video, this provoked a thought to opening a chanel myself. Thank you for such an in detail walk-through with remarkable outcomes.
Appreciate the kind words Emma, thank you! Yes, start a channel. It's fun, and good way to improve video production skills 🙂
I enjoy long exposure for a variety of purposes. A 30 second exposure with the bridge picture smooths out choppy detail in the water so the photo doesn't look so busy. Seems to isolate the bridge a little better too. For the flower, I swirled the chrysanthemum in a bowl of water with just a 1/4 second exposure with the camera sitting on a tripod and using a remote trigger, and then rotated the image 180 in post-processing. This one is like blurring the water in a rushing stream or waterfall... it doesn't need a real long exposure to get a good amount of blur. For the statue downtown, I just moved the camera up and down with a 0.4 exposure. Helps to work in the shade so that you can get a longer exposure. While the image appears to be raining, it was not. That's a by-product of the camera movement. Lastly, for the autumn colors picture, instead of lmoving the camera in a straight up and down, or left to right motion, I moved it around in circles. And then took two images that I liked and blended them in Photoshop.
Rotating the camera is a great technique, lovely flower shot.