Profoto B10 Versus Godox AD400Pro: The Best Strobes Compared

A few months ago, we released our first impressions of the new Profoto B10 portable flash unit, and many of our readers claimed that we didn't give it an honest review because it was wildly overpriced. Today, we are giving the critics what they asked for: we are going to compare it to the Godox AD400Pro.

Both of these flashes have more similarities than differences. They are both compact, battery-powered flashes that can also be plugged into AC power. The true differences are found in the details, and we have compiled the most detailed comparison in Fstoppers history. Let's get to it. 

Build Quality

There's no doubt that the Profoto B10 has superior build quality when compared to the AD400. The shell feels thicker, the buttons feel expensive, and the screen on the B10 is color. The AD400 feels more hollow, and the buttons feel more flimsy. This should come as no surprise.

Size and Weight 

This is another easy win for the Profoto B10. The AD400 is much larger, almost twice the size, in fact. The B10 weighs 3.3 lbs, while the AD400 is 4.63 lbs.

User Interface

Once again, the Profoto B10 is the clear winner. The B10 only has three buttons on it, and anyone could pick up the light and figure out how it works without reading a manual. The AD400 has many buttons and a much more complex menu system. If you buy the AD400, you'll probably want to read through the manual. 

AC and DC Compatible

Both flash batteries can be charged while they are being used. This is a huge upgrade from previous flashes that required the battery to be charged separately. 

Light Modifiers and Mounts

The Godox AD400 has a Bowens style mount built in, but Profoto, Broncolor, and Elinchrom accessories can be added to the front to work with any accessories you may already own. This is a massive value and makes the AD400 the most versatile light we have ever tested when it comes to accessories. 

Obviously, the B10 can only accept Profoto modifiers, which happen to be some of the most expensive in the industry. 

Battery Power

The Profoto B10 battery is significantly smaller, but it actually holds a larger capacity and is capable of producing 400 flashes at full power, while the AD400's battery can only fire 390. 

The Power Test

Perhaps the most important question that every photographer is going to ask is: "which flash is more powerful?" In order to accurately test this question, along with many of the other tests that follow below, we ordered a Sekonic Speedmaster L-858D light meter. We then set up a single light stand eight feet away from the meter and ran both the Godox AD400Pro (with Profoto mount) and the Profoto B10 flashes through their entire power range. On every test that follows, we recorded each flash pop three times for redundancy and averaged the recordings (in most cases, all three recorded values were exactly the same). For our own curiosity, we also tested a few other flashes including the Profoto D1 1,000Ws, the Profoto B1, the Godox AD200, and the Yongnuo 568 EX for Nikon. It should be noted, we ran all of these tests with the older Profoto B1 and not the newer Profoto B1X, which Profoto claims to be slightly more powerful.

Here is the data from all of the power settings on every flash we tested.

Flash Power Test between Profoto B10 and Godox AD400

As you can see from the raw numbers above, the Profoto B10 and the Godox AD400 registered exactly the same flash output at full power. As we stopped the flashes down, their output levels almost match perfectly especially when the Profoto was set to normal mode. Of course, the Profoto B10 also goes down one more stop than the Godox AD400, which can be nice when trying to balance flash with low-light, high-ISO environments. It's also interesting to note that both the B10 and the AD400 also appear to be the same power as the Profoto B1 (again, note that our units are the older B1 and might be less powerful than the newer B1X).

Flash Range

One big conclusion we noticed with this test was that the power levels between full stops of light were not as even as we would have liked. From the data above, we plotted every recorded value and found that very few of the flashes we tested showed a constant power change when we dialed the flashes up or down one stop on their LCD. The only flash that did have a perfect increase of one stop between settings was the Profoto D1, which you can see from the straight red line on the graph below.

Graph of all power levels between Profoto B10 and Godox AD400

We wish we would have found a straight line between each stop of light and each full stop setting on the flash. Instead, what we found was a lot of variance along our graph lines. What this means is that sometimes, when you power down a flash by one full stop, you might be removing more than a stop of light or you might actually remove less than a stop of light. If you look at the yellow Profoto B10 line and the green Godox AD400 line above, you can see that neither one of them is as perfectly straight at the red Profoto D1 line. So while it is nice that both the Profoto and Godox flashes let you adjust the power setting in 1/10th increments, from our tests, none of these power adjustments are all that accurate. The D1 was the only flash out of the entire group that showed accurate power levels.

There is a lot to take from this test, but our overall conclusion is that the Profoto B10 and the Godox AD400 produce the exact same exposure at full power, but the B10 does give you 1.36 stops more stops over the entire range of the strobe. Obviously, this is happening at the lowest power levels of the flash, but that could be useful depending on what type of flash photography you are doing. The other major conclusion it leaves us with is that unless the newer Profoto B1X is a stop more powerful than the older B1, there really isn't any reason to buy the older Profoto B1 over the new B10. 

The Flash Duration Test

Another test we wanted to run was a flash duration test. Flash duration is the length of time in which a flash can deliver all or most of its power load. This is important, because if a flash delivers its load too slowly, it starts to act like a constant light and loses its ability to freeze action. Flash durations are typically measured by two standards: t.5 and t.1 times. Many flash manufactures use the more forgiving t.5 time, because it produces faster flash duration values, but without getting into too many specifics, t.5 times aren't the best measurements, because a portion of the unrecorded flash load still might make an impression on your overall exposure.  You can see from the image below just how much flash still influences your photograph after the t.5 time has been measured.

Amount of flash exposure recorded at t.5 and t.1 times

To make things simple and more useful, we decided to measure each flash with the more stringent t.1 flash duration scale. Below, you can find the chart of all our recorded t.1 values for each of the flashes (these are reciprocal times, so larger numbers are faster):

t.1 Flash Duration Test between Godox AD400 and Profoto B10

As you can see from the test above, the Profoto B10 flash was about twice as fast as the Godox AD400 at full power. At 1/2 power and lower, the Godox AD400 was about the same if not faster than the Profoto B10. However, when the B10 was placed into Freeze mode, the Profoto came up as the clear winner throughout the entire flash range.

It's a well known fact that speedlights produce extremely fast flash durations, especially as you lower their power down. What's interesting is that at 1/128th power, both the Yongnuo flash and the D10 are about the same power (f/1.1 in our tests) yet the D10 has about a stop slower flash duration than the cheaper speedlight. The D10 can get as fast as 1/15,900 of a second, but the power has to be at its lowest 1/512th setting. If you compare the D10 to the Godox AD200 speedlight at 1/128th power, the AD200 actually has 1.4 stops more power with the same 1/15,900 flash duration. So, in some ways, if you need the fastest flash duration possible with the most power, a smaller speedlight actually outperforms the larger flashes. Keep in mind, these lightning-fast flash durations are only really necessary when shooting fast moving objects or freezing water splashes. Between the D10 and the AD400, we have to give the Profoto the win here, but depending on what you are shooting, this test may or may not be a major factor in deciding which flash is best for you.

The High Speed Sync Test

One test that we failed to add to our video was the high-speed sync test. High-speed sync, or HSS, is a mode that will allow you to shoot beyond your camera's maximum shutter sync curtain by rapid firing the flash to act as a constant light. Typically, on most cameras, this hard limit is around 1/200th of a second, and if you shoot past this shutter speed, you will start to notice the black shutter showing up in your photographs. Since both the Godox AD400 and the Profoto B10 allow you to shoot in HSS mode, we wanted to know if either of these flashes gave you more bang for your buck, so to speak.

Here are the results we found when shooting in HSS mode:

The Profoto B10 versus the Godox AD400 in High Speed Sync Mode

What we found from our tests is that the AD400 gave us about 1/3rd a stop more power than the B10 with a shutter of 1/4000. We also noticed that the older Profoto B1 actually gave a full stop more power than the B10 in HSS mode and about .6 stops more power than the AD400. Another strange result we experienced was that when we stopped the AD400 down a few stops in power, our light meter continued to give us lower and lower readings, while it was not able to give us any readings on the B10 below full power (hence the "under" value). If the Godox values are accurate, it also means that for every stop you lower the AD400 flash, you actually only lose 1/2 stop of light, which seems a bit strange.

I was also interested in seeing how much light was lost between shooting at full power on both flashes versus full power in HSS mode. Both flashes recorded values at around f/12 at full power at ISO 100 and 1/200 (normal sync), while they both recorded values at around f/1.6 at ISO 100 and 1/4,000 (HSS mode). If you do the math, this shows that you lose about a full 2 stops of flash power when shooting in HSS mode versus shooting at your camera's normal max sync speed. We will probably do another video on this topic, but this should prove that HSS mode does not help you "overpower the sun," but actually gives you a handicap when trying to overpower the sun. The real reason to use HSS mode is to keep your aperture wide open while shooting outdoors with flash. If you truly want to overpower the ambient light, your best bang for your buck is to set your camera at 1/200th of a second and stop your lens down to f/8 or more. This will always give you more power from your strobe at the expense of having a sharper background.

Overall, I'd say both flashes perform about the same in HSS mode, so I don't think there is a clear winner here.

The Modeling Light Test

One of the biggest advances found on the new Profoto B10 is it lets you color balance the LED modeling light. This is super useful if you shoot video and want to use constant light with all of the light modifiers you already own. It's also handy if you want to shoot natural light photos and add constant light to your scene. The Godox AD400 also has a powerful modeling lamp, but the color cannot be changed to balance between incandescent and daylight white balances. In this regard, the Profoto B10 is the better option for a useful modeling lamp.

We did test the overall brightness of each units model lamp, and this chart shows our findings:

Different power levels of constant lights

As you can see, we not only tested the B10 and AD400 in this test, but we also added our favorite hot light, the Feliix P360 light, as well as our favorite small LED panel and the tiny waterproof Litra mini LED light. We also tested the Apple iPhone's led light, but it was not bright enough to register a value at all. From the results, the AD400 light is 1.2 stops brighter than the B10 led light, but that is to be expected since the B10 light is bi-color, and that probably takes away a full stop of light from the array. Just comparing these two lights, I'd say the B10 is still the better option if having a usable bi-color LED is important to you, but for us, we will still use our Feliix P360 light in the studio when filming video.

Refresh Rates

Now that we have all the super technical tests behind us, we wanted to find out which flash had the faster recycle rates. This is important to any photographer who has had to shoot fast action back to back outside with full-power flash bursts. If a flash is too slow to recycle, you will get uneven exposures at best and a completely dark subject at the worst.

Even though Profoto claims to have a full recycle time of 2.2 seconds, we found it to be closer to 1.7 seconds between each full-power flash pop. For the Godox flash, we found the AD400 to recycle at roughly one second, even though they advertise 0.9 seconds. So, clearly the Godox is slightly faster, but we found both flashes to be extremely fast at less than two seconds each. If you are shooting catalog work, events, headshots, or standard portraits, the recycle rate of either of these flashes shouldn't give you any issues, but if you are shooting fast-moving sports where you need to blast through 3-5 frames per second, you are probably going to want to buy a much more powerful studio power pack to guarantee every photo is exposed evenly. In the end, we have to give Godox credit for having a faster recycle time than the Profoto B10.

White Balance

One of the biggest complaints I have heard about cheaper flashes is that they do not show color consistently between consecutive flash pops or among different power settings. For this test, we abandoned the Sekonic light meter (although yes, it can measure white balance) and instead just did a simple eyeball test by taking photographs. 

For the first test, we wanted to see if the color temperature between the Profoto B10 and the Godox AD400 changed as we blasted through 20 images back to back. We used the Fstoppers Flash Disc as a gray card reference. To our surprise, the color accuracy between every flash fire was identical on all power settings. That's pretty impressive for both units.

White balance from full power to lowest power

For the second test, we wanted to see if the color temperature changed as we went from full power to the lowest power. Once again, both units showed pretty constant white balance color, even though the exposure varied a bit between each setting (as mentioned above, one stop down doesn't always equal one full stop output). As you can see in the animation above, we did find a lot of color variation with the Profoto B10 when the unit was placed in Freeze mode. This mode allows those lightning-fast flash durations, but at the expense of accurate color. You can clearly see the flash gets bluer as you lower the power setting, but retains pretty accurate color balance from full power down to about 1/16th power. The Godox flash did not experience any major shift in color regardless of the color mode it was set to. The Profoto might be slightly more accurate in color mode, but you might actually prefer getting the more accurate color and shorter flash duration of the Godox in freeze mode. 

Technically Profoto may be slightly more accurate by an extremely small margin in color mode but you could also make the argument that the Godox is a more well-rounded flash because it has extremely accurate color while in freeze mode. We gave the technical win to Profoto the video but this is certainly up for debate. 

Remote Features

The remotes for both flashes are pretty similar aside from one major missing feature on Profoto's. The Godox XPro remote shows the output of the flash on the remote, while the Profoto doesn't. You can still control the power output up or down, but the remote itself doesn't display what the power output will be. 

The B10 does also have Bluetooth and can connect to a smartphone via an app that can control and show you the power output of the lights. This is a great feature, but we would rather have had this information show up on the remote.  

Remote Range

Surprisingly, both remotes have an incredible range that became unreliable at the exact same distance. From our tests, both units worked at an insane distance of about 500 feet. We could never get other radio triggers to fire reliably even half of this distance so this is a dream come true in wireless triggering. 

Warranty and Repairs

We have not personally looked into Godox repairs, but we have heard many people claim they are disposable in the sense that you won't be able to have them repaired in the US. Profoto does have a warranty and a local repair facility so it's nice to know you can always send your gear to them for repairs in the event something malfunctions or breaks.


If the Profoto B10 cost a few hundred dollars more than the AD400, I think it could be easily justifiable, even to photography enthusiasts, but it doesn't. 

The B10 costs $1,600, while the AD400Pro is $650. The Profoto remote is $420 and the Godox remote is $70. The Profoto battery is $200 and the Godox's is $170

If you bought a flash, remote, and extra battery, the Profoto package would cost $2,200 while the Godox would cost $890. That's 40 percent of the cost. 


The Profoto B10 is a better flash by a small margin in the most important tests, but in some categories, the Godox was the clear winner. The fact that the AD400 can be outfitted to accept modifiers from four different brands makes it extremely versatile. Perhaps the most impressive feature was the Godox remote that had a similar range, more features, and was 20 percent of the cost of Profoto's remote. 

For the majority of people reading this, the Godox AD400 is the obvious choice. You're getting a Profoto B10 in a larger package for a fraction of the cost. If it breaks, you'll literally be able to buy another one, and you'll still be saving money. 

But, if you're a professional photographer, and you're willing to spend more than double the cost to have similar technology packed down into a significantly smaller, much higher quality package, you're still going to love the B10. You just have to realize that you are paying a premium for a luxury item that will probably have no effect on your actual photography... but, that goes for basically any piece of new gear.

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Previous comments
Patrick Hall's picture

I’ve used to own a bunch of PCB alienbee 800s and an Einstein or two and I was never that impressed with them. Up until now, I would always say the PCB was the absolute best flash in terms of value and perhaps customer service but from a design element, they left a lot to be desired.

My first issue was their modifier Mount. That 4 prong spring tension mount they made was the absolute worst. I can’t tell you how many times I tried to mount a 5-7’ Octa only to miss one of the teeth and have the softbox break the flash tube. I sincerely think Profoto’s Mount is the best engineered mount and have to say PCB is probably the worst. I recall the Einstein having a glass dome which helped protect the flash tube but I broke many an 800 flash tubes.

I also broke the handles that connects the unit to the lightstand a few times. It was just plastic and snapped a few times when I didn’t pack the lights up carefully enough.

I wish I still had my 800s because I always felt the color balance on them was shifted to the green side just a touch. In the studio I never noticed it but when I balanced the ambient light outside with strobe (mainly wedding shoots), I always felt like the colors in my images were off when I compared images taken with the Alien Bee to any similar photo I shot with a Nikon SB800/900. It always looked off on the green/magenta side. I think the Einstein’s were much better but I always recall that issue with the 800s.

I also remember my 800 had the worst pocket wizard adapter. It had 4 little Metal prongs that would always get bent and it was the most fragile thing ever. That’s prob more a knock on Pocket Wizard than PCB but that is the pocket wizard unit you had to use if you went PCB (back when their own triggers were super cheap, I don’t know what their remotes look like now).

The reflectors....they weren’t bad and they were cheap but I bent mine to all sorts of shapes while transporting them. The only other reflectors I’ve own are the beefier Profoto ones (don’t own the ocf stuff) and they are still round enough to hold grids.

PCB is based out of Nashville and their customer service was always top notch. I have nothing but good things to say there and for the weekend shooter, hobbyist, they are the best deal on the market (although Godox might take that reign now). But once you start shooting 20-30 weddings a year or move on to high paying commercial work, I wouldn’t recommend the buff for those gigs. Just my detailed thoughts since it got brought up. I’d love to see them release a newer light like the B10 or Ad400 that has the battery built in because carrying those vagabonds was another thing I couldn’t stand.

Motti Bembaron's picture

I had two Einsteins and B400's and I loved them. They felt to sturdy and were always so reliable. However, I ended up selling them. Between all the lights, large light stands (a must with those lights), batteries, backup strobes and especially modifiers, going for a job I needed a large SUV to carry all the equipment. By the time I carry everything to the location (especially in our fun winters) I was ready to go home. It was just not fun anymore.

As for modifiers, Alien Bees softboxes are great if you have a studio. They are just way too cumbersome to carry around. I had the 2x2 and 5x2 softboxes and they could not fit anywhere. The mounting system made them big and not easy to lug around.

I do the same jobs now with less than half the weight. And the results are amazing! My modifiers are thin and fit in my light stand bag.

Paul C Buff need to go with the times. An Einstein with a battery and a radio receiver is around $800 so it is very good compare to Profoto and around the same as the AS600 but it takes three times the space and weight and that is very important.

Motti Bembaron's picture

I always said that I loved my ALien Bees. I had two Einsteins and two 400's and they always worked, no problem. As you said, mobility was an issue, for me anyway. Getting older is no fun...

I have been using Godox for the past three years for just about everything and I love them. I had an issue with radio messing up a bit however, I found out that when using radio on channel 1 (the default) it seems to have interference from other radios around. I changed it and so far no problems at all.

The AD200's are really amazing.

Daniel Medley's picture

Very nice write up. Unless one is already invested in the Profoto ecosystem, I don't really see how it makes good sense--business or otherwise--to spend the premium. Unless I'm missing something, I don't see the cost benefit of spending twice as much over a Godox unit; especially for those just embracing an ecosystem.

Yep, you're paying a massive premium for the package size of the b10.

Ben Deckert's picture

The bottom line for me is would you rather have one B10 or three AD400Pro's? One B10 with a remote will cost you around $2,014 and three AD400's with a Pro remote will cost you $2,018. You can do a lot with three lights....

Motti Bembaron's picture

Three exceptionally good lights and excellent radio system :-)

John MacLean's picture

Put them in a medium softbox or umbrella and get back to me with power output results. Homogenizing the light is the only fair test.

Patrick Hall's picture

What are you implying? When the B10 and AD400 are placed in a softbox that one will be brighter than another? They should be the exact same.

Motti Bembaron's picture

Maybe (and I am guessing here) because the Godox bulb is external it would bounce better inside a softbox? Actually, maybe it's worth testing.

Patrick Hall's picture

I'll def do this test. I'm excited to do a more technical "does an extended bulb make a softbox look different" test in general.

Motti Bembaron's picture

That would be great! Looking forward to see/hear the results.

Incidentally, today I did a retake of some school students. Since there were only three students and a teacher, instead of taking the AD200's I just took a couple of speedlight. This particular settings was a simple two umbrellas setup. I always use the AD200's with bare bulb with the Godox AD-S17 Soft Focus Shade Dome Diffuser.

)Here is a link:

When using the speedlights the quality of light was completely different and not too attractive. I will need to 'massage' the photos much more than usual.

It is not of course the same as what we discussed in the comments but still, as we know, modifiers make all the difference and bare bulb vs Fresnel head also makes a huge difference.

Patrick Hall's picture

I'd say it should be pretty obvious that those little difussers won't produce the same effect as an umbrella. It has nothing to do with the flash and everything to do with the size of your light source. If you put that same difusser on your AD200 you will get the same harsh light as the speedlights and if you put your speedlights in an umbrella you will get the same softer light as the AD200.

Motti Bembaron's picture

Ah, did not explain myself right. The setup was the same, two umbrellas, one on each side of the subject but instead of the AD200's with the dome I used two speedlight.

I expected the light to be different but not that much. It's been a while since I used a speedlight for off camera light, the AD200's are so mobile and easy to setup I consider them as speedlight.

John MacLean's picture

Patrick, I’m implying that the bare heads or with built-in reflectors, whatever they may be, will have uneven throws. By diffusing them it will level the playing field.

In the video Lee compared the measured t.1 times against the claims of the manufacturers. Where did you find the claimed t.1 times for Profoto? I’ve only ever seen t.5 times from them.

On the B10 sales page on BH

Felix Wu's picture

Profoto started publishing their t0.1 since Pro10/B2/B1X

Felix Wu's picture

Value wise it is the same argument as comparing one canon 851.2 vs three 85 1.8...i would still love to own one 85 1.2 that I really love.

My problem with Profoto is that why don’t they put in the R&D to reinvent a LED prohead with exposed tube for Pro users? It’s like they are serious about lighting but they don’t.

Godox has beeen catching up fast by learning all the Broncolor tech it’s just a matter of time before they adopting the Profoto interface and become the most popular lighting choice. I know Godox really listens from their photographers and consultants and that will make them a lighting giant in years to come.

Motti Bembaron's picture

I agree. They are catching up really fast.

Patrick Hall's picture

One thing I really did love about the Godox system was how easy it was to replace the bulb. This made me think, if Profoto made their bulb this easy to pop in and out, they could easily sell a secondary bulb that had some spacers in it so the bulb would stick out of the end of the D/B1 series and give users the exposed bulb they wanted. Maybe even make a new flash cover that would protect it that you could buy separately. That would be the best of both worlds.

Julian Ray's picture

Thanks Lee for once again giving us your honest take on tech. As you know the web is choking n nerdy, techie, opiniony, "reviews" of just about everything but most are just rants or sellouts with little real life usage experience. Your work in content creation lends a ton of credibility to your review.
I work professionally as a commercial photographer and spend most of my time on the road. Usually in very challenging environments. Over the years I've had my ass handed to me by clients who where not impressed with how cheap "value" a piece of gear was when it fails. They only care about one thing. Did I get the shot.
In SE Asia, where I work a lot, Gordox is king. It is popular for one reason, price. NOT for durability, reliability, or really performance. Yes in a cool studio they can keep up but when your are in the hot sun or near freezing wind. Not so much.
I have never been let down with any of my ProFoto gear. Yes I've broken lights, had generators (god how I love the Pro10!) been damaged in shipping, or drops but when everything is set up and ready for the shot ProFoto works. And here is one point you did not touch on whit your review. ProFoto kit work for YEARS! I know there are tones of Gordox fanboys that say even if you have to replace their lights every few months they are still cheaper than ProFoto. And that goes back to the client. They only care about the shot. I cannot afford to buy and haul around a tone of throwaway cheap junk just to ensure I have the scene covers the day of the shoot. ProFoto delivers. It does so reliably and I does so year after year.
Thanks again for both another great review as well as all the hard work keeping Fstoppers going.
PS -I'm attaching one of series of images I did for Ducati Global. This image was crafted on location in Bagan, Myanmar. It was the middle of the day, hot as hell (I think it was about 104deg) dusty, a long way from anything and did I mention hot?. The lights where ProFoto ProHead+ on a couple of B4 generators as well as a couple of B1x for catchlight.
ProFoto gear. It just works.

Akpe ododoru's picture

I would rather buy a cheap light that works 100% that i can upgrade in few years than buy one that last forever and can no longer get parts for. Why don't you try linking us to a store that still sells batteries for an Acute 600 or 7B

Julian Ray's picture

Hello Akpe. If you enter "batteries for an Acute 600 or 7B" in a search engine you will find many many links. I just tried it in Google and.... About 283,000 results (0.46 seconds)
But I agree with you that sometimes finding parts for older kit is a bit of a challenge. Thanks for your comment.

Patrick Hall's picture

A brilliant trick I learned from Monte Isom's Business tutorial we produced is that most editorial publications and esp commercial clients have a budget for rental house gear. For decades he has been renting the gear he needs for his own shoots from, get this, his own separate rental house. In other words, he bought all his super expensive Profoto gear (we are talking the $10,000 packs, not D1s) and then puts a rental line item on his invoices. If he didn't own them, he would have to rent them anyways so it's not a hit to the client but rather a smart investment for his business. Anyways, the point is, if you are shooting commercially and are smart about your gear, it's WAY easier to justify a $2000 rental line item if you are renting something like $20k in Profoto gear than if you are trying to rent $2000 in Godox gear. This probably only applies to like 10% of our readers who shoot at this level and are savvy with their business/invoicing skills but it's a simple way to not only pay off your gear quickly but to also make money on the gear you already use.

Julian Ray's picture

Patrick, equipment rental line item(s) is an absolute must. Whether you own it or rent it all kit is part of the budget. It is just part of TCODB. Lenses, bodies, lights, grip kit, are all part of the package that the client is budgeting for.
Thanks for bringing this point up. I know way too many photographers who effectively give their kit away shoot after shoot and are in a pool of hurt when the kit needs repairing, replacing or updating.
It is common practice to own the kit you use most of the time and only ret the things that are peculiar to the project. But you always have the equipment as part of the proposal. Just like makeup, stylists, etc.

Francisco Hernandez's picture

"Profoto gear. It just works."

Take a visit to the Profoto user groups on Facebook and do a search for "A1 battery" then see if that still stands. I've used my Godox speedlites and the AD600B for 2 1/2 years already and they've worked great.

Francisco Hernandez's picture

Feel free to take a look at my instagram to see more examples. This is one of many.

Felix Wu's picture

That A1 battery issue has been addressed I think.

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