Buying a camera is a big decision, no matter if you’re just starting out or have years of experience under your belt. With so many models and brands available, it’s easy to get overwhelmed by marketing claims and the latest gadget hype.
Coming to you from Tom Calton, this practical video covers some common mistakes you might make when choosing a camera. One major issue he addresses is brand bias. There’s a misconception that a few popular brands are superior to all others, but Calton debunks this, pointing out that no brand makes flawless cameras. Each has its pros and cons, and focusing solely on brand popularity can lead to disappointment. Instead, he advises looking at what each brand’s ecosystem offers, which is a much smarter way to find gear that matches your needs. If you’re unsure, go to a camera store, try different models, and see how they feel. Small details, like button layout or grip comfort, can make a huge difference in how much you enjoy using a camera.
Another crucial point Calton raises is the obsession with buying only the latest models. This can be short-sighted, especially since the used camera market is full of high-quality, older models that still perform exceptionally well. A camera that was top-of-the-line a few years ago can still take stunning photos, even if it’s missing the newest features. Plus, buying used means you can allocate more budget to accessories or better lenses, which might improve your overall photography experience more than having the latest body.
The video also touches on a mistake that many people make—focusing too much on the camera body and neglecting lens quality. While it’s tempting to go all-in on a shiny new camera, you’ll often get better results by investing in high-quality lenses. Different brands have varying levels of support for third-party lenses, and this is where doing your research pays off. For example, Canon’s RF mount has fewer third-party options compared to others, though this is starting to change. However, Canon’s own lenses are known for their quality, so if you’re not interested in third-party lenses, that might not be a dealbreaker.
That's just the start of the helpful advice, so check out the video above for the full rundown from Calton.
Please do not follow this advice. Please keep buying the newest and the flashiest gear out there. So that I will always have a source for outstanding used cameras at a fraction of the cost of new.
The best info for someone new with an interest in photography! Today everyone wants video and forgets about Stills and also today no one wants to edit an image, yes videos, so no matter most will just use auto function and output in jpeg - which really is the best start to see how a camera works with images. A thing MANY MANY new to the sport either for pro or hobby is there are photo clubs everywhere and a great place to see images from different makes and models, Also many schools or colleges have classes but beware a instructor will have their favorite and the good ones will start with film cameras (like doing jpegs) no editing just compositions good to know info the main thing is developing you eye to see what others do not, an example is photo tours where from a few to hundreds follow a favorite photographer as he/she points out stuff but the key is each and every person in the group DOES NOT capture the same image SOME CLOSE for it is all different lenses and cameras mostly the editing. Lastly be a hobbyist and have a real job that way you can find what type of images you want to capture or video types.
Just an add about the camera, back in the early days of digital there were point and shoot and some had zoom lenses (not removable) but without sensors with IBIS or lenses with OSS and all images came out great looking but then came the DSLRS with mirrors that flipped up and depending on what was to be captured had to be on a tripod. And AHHH!! came the mirrorless the main but there were a few others was Sony with the A7/r/s but within a year the same models had IBIS and lenses had OSS/IS. A very important thing that the younger photographers do not know is that software was very expensive if you wanted to edit a raw image, PS/Lr were $800 + each and for the same for each full update - the cost of most all DSLR cameras with two kit lenses!!!! But again back to Sony it worked with a Pro software Capture One for just $30 to be included, next while developing cameras they gave the specs to lenses to adapter makers meaning you could use your old film and DSLR lenses WHILE Sony mad more lenses to pick from and you could Save up for. And one thing not even most pros/reps knew about was on camera apps that let you do things like lens correction for those lenses you used with adapters (that went for $20) also time lapses, multi shot combined in one image; no editing required and my favorite still is the "Digital Filter" and "Sky HDR" both use any all camera selections you can think off to capture an image but also divide the main image into two or three sections and each use section used any camera ISO/F#/SS also WB etc.. SAD you can no longer buy any of the apps and next year no longer download the ones you purchased. https://www.playmemoriescameraapps.com/portal/. I tease not but look at all the apps and before you buy a used model mod 1 or 2 ASK the used seller if they are still on the camera, it will be more valuable in the long run. A note the Time Laps function was later put into newer cameras of all makers so you no longer need an external device!
As a note I have/had a bag full of Canon FD film lenses of f/2.8 and faster in all millimeters and telephotos, I even used a telephoto to capture the Lunar Eclipse after I bought my A7SM1. The A7RM2 I was able to do bracketing hand held at Antilope Canyon while others were on sticks doing long exposures in the dimly lit canyon,. The point is now very old cameras in camera years they are still great and with apps and you do not need to carry filters when out far on a mountain path and they also do video if that is a need.
3. used the digital filter to capture the MW over a bright glow of a town.
4. used the digital filter to capture the MW over a bright glow of a lit runway.
Wholly molly wall of text
For me it has always been about the user interface. My first good camera was a Contax 139 due to the vastly superior ergonomics (thank you Porsche Bauhaus group) plus one of the very first TTL flash controllers.
Just like I won't buy a new car without some knobs on the dash because I don't want to go doinking through menus on a touch screen just to change the temperature or the media volume, I don't want a camera without some physical dedicated knobs for the main controls of shutter speed, iso, and aperture. This led me to the XT3 and then the XT5.
The retro Nikons come close but unfortunately the lenses lack a dedicated aperture ring.