Understanding how to balance ambient light and flash can transform your photos. With so many types of flashes and varying methods of control, it's essential to grasp the basics and build from there.
Coming to you from Mark Wallace, this insightful video explores how to replicate studio-quality lighting with a simple speedlight. By switching from manual mode to TTL (Through-The-Lens) mode, Wallace shows you how to achieve balanced results without needing expensive gear. Wallace explains that although different flash models have various button layouts and settings, the core principles remain the same. Instead of overwhelming you with brand-specific tutorials, he focuses on teaching the techniques that will help you adapt to any equipment. Learning how exposure compensation affects both ambient light and flash output is a key part of this lesson.
As you watch, you'll see how Wallace sets up his camera in aperture priority mode and adjusts exposure compensation to manipulate the ambient light. He demonstrates this by shooting a subject against a bright background, adjusting the exposure to show the impact on both the subject and the background. This is particularly useful for those who want to maintain detail in both the subject and their surroundings, without one overpowering the other. The ability to control light this way gives you the creative flexibility to shape the look of your photos.
If you’re new to working with flash, this video is an excellent way to dive into the essentials without being bogged down by technical jargon. Wallace keeps things straightforward, showing step by step how to manage exposure compensation and TTL to achieve the desired effect. Whether you're using Canon, Nikon, Fujifilm, or another brand, this lesson will help you make the most of your speedlight. Check out the video above for the full rundown from Wallace.
If you would like to continue learning about how to light a portrait, be sure to check out "Illuminating The Face: Lighting for Headshots and Portraits With Peter Hurley!"
Even the simple built in flash, if used correctly, can make a big difference. The key for me when using an external flash was to always making sure the flash was over the lens and separated by 8 to 12 inches using a bracket. Since I shot 6x6 back then it was pretty easy just keep the flash attached all the time. The main thing was not to worry about using an off camera flash or multiple units when the need for speed is important. Also not overpowering the ambient light is best most of the time. I did go for the Peter Gowland full flash a few times, which if done right is rather pleasing.
As a full time pro, I did hundreds of outdoor portraits every warm season in Wisconsin. My formula was to use a remote, off camera flash, manually set at minus 2-stops less light than my metered exposure. A hand held meter towards the brightest natural lighting (digital) was my camera setting, and my electronic flash unit 2 stops less. Besides adding a nice catch-light to the eyes, it also eliminated any random reflected colors, like green from the grass, or colored buildings nearby. My lab loved me for it, as color corrections were rarely needed.
The Pixurman
Even though I shoot off-camera flash 90% of the time vs on-camera, it's definitely important to learn on-camera for fast paced and/or crowded space scenarios such as events.
IMO, if using flash, might as well be in manual w/ manual ISO. I'm going to assume most people have their front dial set for shutter speed. It's more efficient to adjust the ambient via front dial vs adjusting exposure compensation by way of another dial (typically top) or activating by another button.
This method doesnt work for me. I am using a Canon R8. I set the ISO to 100, using aperture priority. Using TTL on Godox V1, exposure compensation does not affect the ambient light. Does anyone know what Im doing wrong?