When it comes to used cameras there are many powerful contenders for the top spot in terms of the best bang for your buck. Well, almost no cameras have been losing value as fast as Fujifilm’s X-Ts with each new release. For a budgeting photographer, this can only mean you get the good stuff cheap.
First of Its Generation
The Fujifilm X-T3 was released back in September 2018 making it the first camera of the fourth generation of the X-Series. It came out just a few months after the X-H1 and managed to steal its thunder considerably. The X-T3 was the first camera to have the, by today's standards still very capable, BSI CMOS X-Trans 4 sensor which we can still see being used today in the X-S20 released not too long ago. At last, we could rely on near 100% AF point coverage on a Fujifilm body with decent autofocusing and tracking capabilities for its time. And thanks to Fujifilm it has not been left in the dust with the release of newer bodies like the X-T30 or X-T4. Firmware updates and the famous Kaizen philosophy have kept the X-T3 relevant to this day.
Well, as we’ve already grown accustomed to, Fujifilm’s X-T series cameras drop in price quite a bit once a new successor comes out. And the X-T3 has not been immune to this trend once the X-T4 and now the brilliant X-T5 saw the light of day. But the performance gap is by no means that huge between the three aforementioned bodies. That combined with the low used prices of the camera makes it one of the best choices for a budgeting photographer wanting a powerful and pro-level Fujifilm body without having to spend for the latest and greatest.
A Well-Tested Body Design With All the Right Features
Not everyone wants a massive camera with a grip deep enough to hide your entire lunch. The X-T3 has a compact, unobtrusive, and tactful body that feels welcoming, and easy to carry yet sturdy, and reliable. It is nearly identical in size to the previous X-T2 or the latest X-T5 and considerably smaller than the outlier the X-T4. Coming in either black or silver it boasts all of the famous Fujifilm mechanical dials dedicated to shutter speed, ISO, exposure compensation, drive modes, and metering modes. Shutter speed and ISO dials are lockable at any position, whilst the exposure compensation dial is subtly tucked beyond the rim of the top plate making accidental turns in your bag less likely.
The back of the camera offers a small AF joystick, a directional pad, a plethora of buttons, and a three-way tilting LCD screen ideal for photography instead of the swivel design many users have not truly liked on the successor. The viewfinder was the first in the series to offer 3.69 million pixels with speeds up to 100 fps. It was ahead of its time with speed and clarity next to a lower-resolution a7 III EVF.
The body of the camera was fully weather-resistant when used with any of the WR-designated XF lenses so there was no need to worry about neither rain, snow, or dust. As any professional camera should, the X-T3 offered two memory card slots this time both being UHS-II compatible. Ideal for serious use. Backup is key and Fujifilm knows it. The ports on the side included a then quite novel USB Type-C for data transfer, in-camera charging, and tethered shooting. Fujifilm even considered tethering to such an extent that it allowed for the side doors to be fully removed in order to prevent a chance of them being damaged.
The front grip is not the deepest on the market, but it is comfortable to use for anyone who does not crave balancing his camera on his middle and ring fingers. The depth was however expandable using a dedicated ergonomic grip. One of my favorite features is the threaded shutter release button. Once you install a soft shutter release you can truly customize the way the camera feels. I use my X-T3 as a second body to my X-T5 and they both feel very similar. So that is why I keep a convex button on one and a concave on the other. The easiest way to tell them apart without having to look at any of them.
Still a Great Sensor
As mentioned before, the 26-megapixel backside-illuminated APS-C X-Trans 4 sensor still gives more than useable results to this day. With its ISO range between 160 and 12800 it does show grain when shot at higher values, but thanks to Fujifilm’s magic the noise is more resembling of analog grain rather than digital noise. Mainly due to the fact that the noise is less color-based and more luminance-based. This means we don’t get many of those random color blotches like the competitors do when shot at higher ISO values. Switch the camera to one of the eight monochrome modes and you’re in for a treat.
The speed of the sensor is still impressive today let alone back in 2018 with its 20 fps continuous raw capture in electronic shutter mode or even 30 fps if you were okay with a little crop. The electronic shutter was capable of speeds up to 1/32000th of a second ideal for bright days with bright apertures. It is not a stacked sensor, however, so I’d be careful using the electronic sensor under artificial light or on fast-moving subjects.
26 megapixels is plenty for most uses. I currently have prints on my walls with the long edge measuring nearly one meter with enough detail to still look good. That combined with the beautifully rendered colors using one of the many Fujifilm’s famous film simulations gives you gorgeous files ripe for printing. Especially considering photographers who can’t be bothered to shoot raw. If you do though, you can still apply your favorite simulation in either Lightroom, Capture One, or Fujifilm’s own X Raw Studio. I personally have my X-T3 set to automatic ISO with the values between the lowest and highest native options and I honestly do not care which number it picks for the shot. It saves me tons of time and I am very happy with the results either way. Of course, everyone is different when it comes to how much noise they tolerate in their shot but I’d rather have a grainy one than no shot at all.
Kaizen, AF, and a Breath of Fresh Air
When the X-T3 came out it was the best Fujifilm has had to offer in terms of AF performance. But as time went on the algorithms have improved considerably. Thanks to Fujifilm’s Kaizen philosophy though, the X-T3 has been updated numerous times to keep up with the times and with the newer models like the X-T4. This meant you could get the exact same autofocus performance without needing to sell the body and upgrade. Same with the video capabilities. It made perfect sense since they both shared the same sensor and processor. All the more shame when the X-Pro3 did not get the same treatment in terms of autofocus performance even though it was considered the more premium one of the two. One thing the X-T4 had that the X-T3 did not was the Nostalgic Negative film simulation meant to resemble the Fujifilm Superia film stock. Not a huge deal, but it is a nice simulation to work with at times.
Great Entry Point or a Perfect Second Body
The X-T3 is truly a great and cheap entry point into the X-mount system for a serious photographer especially nowadays when you can get a used one for less than 900 dollars. It is a well-built, rugged, weather-sealed, dual card slot, and fast camera perfect for a documentary, wedding, street, or conflict shooter who does not want to lug kilos and kilos of gear around whilst keeping the image quality at a more than capable level. My main camera body, as I’ve already mentioned, is an X-T5. But one can only do so much with a single body especially if you’re using primes. That is why I always have the X-T5 paired with the X-T3. One always has the XF 23mm f/2 R WR, whilst the other uses the XF 56mm f/1.2 R WR. And apart from the newer camera offering better tracking capabilities and slightly more detail due to the 40-megapixel sensor they both complement each other perfectly. Neither one stands out when I import all of the files into Lightroom after the shoot. The files match perfectly and the workflow does exactly that, flows.
Samples
Images taken throughout the years when I shot weddings and portraits, documented the war in Ukraine or just shot street photography here and there. Mainly shot using the XF 56mm f/1.2 R (WR) as my main body (X-T5) uses the XF 23mm f/2 R WR lens.
In a lot of ways the X-T5 was a validation of the X-T3. I'm pretty happy with my X-T5 + X-T3 combo, having sold my X-T4 to make the upgrade. If I turned the camera on myself more often I would have kept the X-T4, but all things considered the 3+5 combo seems right for the stills oriented shooter.
Exactly. They fit each other perfectly and the older one is super affordable for its capabilities nowadays.
Out of interest what was the XT4 issue vs 3 and 5? I had the 2 and went to the 4 and haven't had any issues. My main body is the XH2, but I have no problems with the 4. Was it the new focus on video in the 4 that went away with the 5 that you're meaning?
Nothing wrong with the X-T4. It brought modern IBIS and a larger battery to the lineup. It just went in a slightly different direction more towards video with it's swivel screen and it was noticeably bigger than the 3 or the 5. I still understand its appeal, but many photographers prefer the 3 since video, or selfies do not matter to them.
For me it was more economical to upgrade by selling the X-T4 rather than the X-T3. The X-T4 is great, and served as my primary camera for 2 years. It has much better battery life than the 3 and has IBIS. Since the 3 or 4 would have been a secondary camera, I thought the loss of IBIS and battery life was worth the difference in the value I could put towards purchasing the X-T5. Plus I kinda prefer the tilt screen over the fully articulating screen.
The x-t3 gives a slightly more solid impression. Largely because the x-t5 has shrunk a bit and has some cheaper feeling components and finishing, so can feel a bit less battle ready.
But I was never a huge fan of the sensor in the x-t3. When I bought it from the x-t2 I was conflicted, as I wanted the added performance, but didn't want to give up the colours or low light performance. Swapping for the x-t3 was always laced with regret. It's actually why I ended up selling the x100v too, but this time for a good reason. Because the x-t5 colours and rendering is back to the good old days of the x-t2. Low light imagery is surprisingly more appealing than the x-t3 also, up to around iso 10,000.
I only have one body now, but if I had a second body it would have to have either the 40MP X-trans V or the X-trans III. So, thanks for the memories x-t3, a solidly build and solidly performing camera, but I'd be more likely to pick up an x-t2.
I get what you mean. I feel the same comparing the X-Pro2 to the newer X-Pro3. I very much prefer the older one of the two.
Just bought a used X-T3 and a Sigma 30mm to try Fujifilm out and it's been great so far. The camera is fun to use and the image quality has been good. Coming from a Sony a7 (1st gen) and a Nikon D750, it's a nice upgrade, and I may end up selling both of those systems to get an X-T5 and some additional lenses.
The Sigma 30 is a neat little lens and for a great price too! I'll be getting the new Sigma 23/1.4 to review soon, I'm looking forward to that.
When I bought the x-t3 shortly after it was released I was disappointed. I wasn't pleased with the speed and the batterylife. I like the x-t5 with lenses with linear motor on that regard much more. My upgrade path was x-t1, x-t3, x-t5.
You gotta learn a slightly different way of using the NP-W126-powered cameras. I manage to squeeze between 700-1000 images on a single charge with my X-T3.
Ah thanks. I sold the x-t3, but my wife still uses the x-t1. She has four battery's and keeps them charged as much as possible. How do you manage the x-t3, turning all the battery saving options on (screen lighting etc.)?
Quite the opposite. I always use boost mode but turn the camera off once it's away from my eye and by my side. When there's a shot happening I turn it on and by the time my eye is looking through the viewfinder it's on and ready. It takes a while to get into the habit but it can almost double your CIPA promised shots. Depends on the lens though. Some move quite a bit when shutting down and turning on so it might not work with those to the maximum potential.
Thanks. Interesting.
No doubt a great camera, but those front and rear dials are terrible. Too recessed to be comfortably used, especially in the winter. I think they expected people to use finger nails... Main reason for moving to the next generation for me.
I see your point. The rear and front wheels are nicer on the 5, but I honestly can't recall a time when I ever used either of those since all the exposure settings are covered by the top dials and an aperture ring. Maybe to navigate the menu faster than with the d-pad.
I agree with your assessment. I too have an XT-3 which I took to Europe in preference to my Canon R5 because of my back and hand arthritis. Enjoyed its small size and great results. Your photographs are amazing. They have a beautiful analog feel to them. Great tonal range and rich blacks. Do you shoot RAW or JPEG. If RAW, how do you edit them? If JPEGS, which simulation do you use. Do you use any recipes? Thanks.
Thank you! I shoot raw and add the film simulations as profiles in Lightroom. For the black and whites I generally go for Acros+R and for colour I usually go for Classic Chrome. Then it's just a matter of a few subtle exposure sliders and maybe a light S curve.
Thank you so much,
XT3 is a great deal, but the X-T2 is a killer deal right now. You can find good condition bodies for under $500 and it's extremely capable.
I agree that the X-T2 is also still a great option especially considering the cost. I chose the X-T3 mainly due to the fact that it has better autofocus, viewfinder, shooting speeds, video capabilities, and many other options.
You may as well just get the XT-2 and save more cash. The only noticeable difference between the two and three is the IBS. The XT-2 had the better tilting screen as well.
I think you're mistaking the X-T3 for the X-T4. X-T4 is the one with the swivel screen and IBIS. X-T3 does not have IBIS and the screen tilts the same way as the T2.
Have any of you who use Fuji cameras ever had the feeling that your photos often aren't in focus? I have, and I thought it was my mistake. Maybe I should have turned off the image stabiliser and I didn't (the image stabiliser when used at high shutter speeds can induce the opposite effect, it can "destabilise the image"), maybe I didn't check that the subject was in focus, maybe the stabiliser was off and I used a slow shutter speed, or maybe the subject moved at the moment of shooting.
All these questions crossed my mind, that it was my mistake and not Fuji's. Not the Fuji X-E2, the X-T1, the X-T2, the X-T3, the X-T4, the X-H1, the X-PRO2 or the X-PRO3 that I own.
I analysed a lot of the photos I took and their EXIF data and found the following: photographs taken in conditions that provided great depths of field (by using wide-angle and/or very close diaphragms) were more prone to focusing errors. Photographs taken in conditions with little or no depth of field were extremely well focussed. In particular, photos taken with the 35mm f/1.4, 56mm f/1.2 and 90mm f/2 lenses with the diaphragm wide open were in perfect focus!
Next step:
- I set up the camera on a tripod and chose a vase with lots of detail as the subject;
- I used my Fuji X-T5 and a 16-55mm f/2.8 lens;
- I started taking readings with the camera's autofocus;
- focal length - 16 mm;
- distance from the vase - 1.5 metres;
- the focus result with f/8 is around 1.5 metres, but it varies as I press the button;
- then I chose the f/16 diaphragm and as the depth of field increases, so do the focus errors;
- just as it marks 5 metres, it also marks a distance of 1.5 metres or 2.5 metres or around 1.80 metres or even 2 metres;
- choosing the 55mm focal length and f/2.8, the distance measured is always the same.
If, on the depth of field scale, we choose the "FILM FORMAT BASIS" display option, we can see that all these measurements will fall within the bar showing the depth of field.
Finally, I turned the camera towards me and observed the behaviour of the diaphragm every time I pressed the shutter button to focus and confirmed my suspicions that Fuji cameras focus with the diaphragm closed at the pre-selected value!
This way the camera can't distinguish between what's really in focus and what appears to be in focus due to the depth of field.
Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Olympus... All these cameras focus with the diaphragm wide open. I don't understand why Fuji does it with it closed!
It's not my problem, it's the way Fuji's autofocus is designed!
You get a more precise autofocus by switching the focus selector to
- the focus selector to manual focus,
- setting the AF+MF input in the focus menu to ON,
- changing the INSTANT AF SETTING input to AF-S or AF-C
- and using the AF-On button to focus.
With this setting and manual focus and the AF-On button, the camera focuses with the diaphragm fully open, which minimises depth of field resulting in more precise focus, and only closes the diaphragm at the moment of shooting.
If you choose AF-C in the INSTANT AF SETTING entry, when you tap the AF-On button it works as AF-S focus; if you hold the button down, it works as AF-C and the focus varies.
I think Fuji could add to the menu the possibility of choosing whether to focus with the diaphragm closed for the selected value or with the diaphragm wide open, regardless of the pre-selected value, in order to minimise depth of field and obtain a more precise focus. Or not?
I know several photographers who used Fuji equipment and gave up because of this problem and opted for other brands.
I've already sent emails to some Fuji ambassadors and I've had no reply. I've also emailed Fuji and so far they haven't replied. However, there are many complaints on the internet and social networks, but so far Fujifilm has not taken any action.
I've also contacted some users whose photos I think are fantastic, asking them about the Fuji's focus. Many are journalists who use high shutter speeds and shoot with the diaphragm wide open, so they don't have the problem of the quality of the focus being degraded by the depth of field.
My friends, if you also notice problems with the quality of the focus on your cameras, do as I do and put pressure on Fuji.
I've talked to a few Fujifilm reps about this and from what I've been told the aperture closes when focusing with the shutter button because the camera also already exposes with the settings you have selected therefore it closes the aperture to your pre-selected value. This is done to correctly display the image as it is going to be captured on the rear LCD or in the viewfinder. You can disable this by turning off the EXP/WB preview in your screen settings but you won't be able to see your exposure correctly in live view.
Whereas when you use AF-ON button it does not mind the exposure as it is only trying to focus ignoring your current exposure settings. So the aperture stay fully open to confirm its focus more accurately.
If you disabled the feature and have it focus fully open as you suggest you would not see the correct exposure preview in the viewfinder with the aperture closed to your selected value. Back-button-focusing solves this instead.
I've personally never come across this issue and I've been shooting Fujifilm since 2012/2013 and a vast majority of my images are in focus but that might be due to the fact that I rarely close my aperture if at all...
Hello! Thank you very much for speaking with the Fuji technicians and for your explanation. I know a lot of people who have had this problem with Fuji cameras and most of them gave up and opted for other brands. Also, many of those I know who keep Fuji are journalists and they also normally shoot with the diaphragm wide open, set a minimum shooting speed of around 1/200 or 1/250 seconds, have the image stabilizer turned off and only the turning it on when it is really necessary and because they photograph without closing the diaphragm, they do not experience inconsistencies in the autofocus. I'm thinking about doing some experiments and I'll let you know later! Keep doing the great work and stay safe. Jorge
I am familiar with this problem but do not encounter it very often, even with closed apertures.
You say that other camera manufacturers (Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Olympus) do this differently.
I am curious if that is actually true (no idea, maybe you are absolutely right). Is this really a Fuji-only issue? Other brands of mirrorless cameras always focus at full open aperture, even at f8 or f11 and so on?
I think maybe it is also a mirrorless camera issue in general:
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4641507
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4438127
https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1481467
Turn OFF the AF+MF. This is rule number one with Fuji cameras.
If you have this on, even if you choose focus priority the camera may take the shot even if focus is not acquired.
Both the manual and the camera warn you about this. If you chose to ignore these warnings, you can't really blame the camera.
Also the default is shutter priority out of the factory, not shutter priority. You don't mention which you use. Although if you select AF+MF you may as well select "random".