Do You Really Need Expensive f/2.8 Lenses Anymore?

Professional lenses with a wide aperture, like f/2.8 lenses, have been a staple in photography for years. But with the advancements in software today, some might wonder: are these high-priced lenses still worth it, or can you rely on software to get the same results with cheaper gear? The question is valid, and photographers on a budget are increasingly exploring whether they can save money without sacrificing quality.

Coming to you from David Bergman with Adorama, this insightful video dives into whether investing in expensive f/2.8 lenses is necessary when you can use tools like Adobe’s AI-powered noise reduction or Topaz’s image-enhancing software. Bergman starts by explaining why wide aperture lenses are sought after. First, they allow more light into your camera, which means you can shoot in low-light conditions without compromising quality. This is key for those situations where raising your ISO or slowing down your shutter speed could introduce motion blur or excessive digital noise. A wide aperture also lets you freeze fast action, whether you’re photographing sports or wildlife in daylight.

Bergman points out that these pro-level lenses come with more than just a wider aperture. They use high-quality glass and advanced coatings that reduce chromatic aberrations, distortions, and lens flare, resulting in sharper images and better contrast. The superior build quality means these lenses are weather-sealed and durable, which is vital if you’re often shooting in harsh conditions. Additionally, professional lenses tend to have faster and more accurate autofocus, which can make a world of difference when capturing fast-moving subjects.

On the other hand, software tools have come a long way. Programs like Topaz Labs and Adobe Lightroom’s AI noise reduction can do impressive things when it comes to improving image quality, especially if you’re working with less expensive gear. Bergman acknowledges that software can help you compensate for certain limitations of consumer-grade lenses. For example, if you’re mainly buying f/2.8 lenses to avoid high ISO settings and the noise that comes with them, modern software might save you money. You could invest in a cheaper lens and a good camera body with strong high-ISO performance, and let software handle the noise reduction in post-processing.

That said, software has its limits. Bergman is clear that no software can perfectly replicate the natural bokeh effect produced by a lens with a wide aperture. While programs can blur backgrounds artificially, they’re not yet capable of matching the look you get from an actual f/2.8 lens. He also emphasizes the additional benefits of pro lenses—such as weather-sealing, build quality, and autofocus speed—which software can’t substitute. These features are especially important for working professionals who need reliability and consistent performance in any condition.

Ultimately, Bergman suggests that whether or not you need to invest in an expensive lens comes down to your personal needs and budget. For professionals, the performance and convenience of an f/2.8 lens might still be worth the cost. But for hobbyists or those on a tighter budget, modern software can help bridge the gap between expensive lenses and more affordable options. Check out the video above for the full rundown from Bergman.

Alex Cooke's picture

Alex Cooke is a Cleveland-based portrait, events, and landscape photographer. He holds an M.S. in Applied Mathematics and a doctorate in Music Composition. He is also an avid equestrian.

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5 Comments

If software lets an f4 or smaller aperture look better, then it stands to reason it will make the f2.8 or larger f stop lens commensuratly even better.

So, yes. The f2.8 is still better by the same amount as ever.

That’s not the way it works.

In 2014 I was researching full-frame Dlsr's after years with Pentax crop sensor cameras. I ran into a video of Michael Melford, the National Geographic photographer who was switching from Canon to Nikon gear. He bought a D800 and the F-4 trinity, 16-35, 24-120, and 70-200. I did the same. I figured if it was good enough for Mr. Melford it was good enough for me. I have no regrets whatsoever.

I like the video and brief explanation. The answer most always is, “it depends.”

A main dependency is the what you want to use your camera for. If you want to use your camera for family / sports shots, then a mid grade lens upgrade from a kit lens would probably meet just about every need you have.

But another dependency that wasn’t addressed in the video is the cost of lenses/camera equipment vs. the cost of owning software. If Adobe software costs $300 per year, and the technology is getting better and better each quarter, then you might find the more expensive lens isn’t worth what you paid for it because you are using another tool (software) to replicate similar, and sometimes better results.

I wonder how many people have decided to stop using and paying for software. because they spent $3,500 on a lens, and how happy are they with the results.

This is a very deep and many option story and like stated depends! First something to do with your camera or your camera can do, with new AF like eye you will get what I suggest and that is use use the small squire focus in stead of the top AF selection of whole image focus. What you will get is the blur and bokeh balls.
Another time for the use of fast glass is for night capture like Astro Milky Way and today you can get f/1.4 or f/1.8 examples BUT not really needed you can use and f/4 lens able to do a 30s or even a f/5.6 yes this also. In the beginning of digital Astro a normal f/4 like a 16-35mm but back in those years noise was a problem and Software was not able to correct so Pro's were doing stacking of 10 or more images to rid noise but needed fast shutter speeds and a tracker to keep the same sky image. Still a way to capture but not needed due to SW today. but the need for speed is done with fast glass and high MP cameras a 14mm f/1.8 lens on a 60MP camera will be able to get the image in as fast as 2-5 sec. ver 30 sec. but why the need for fast times is because the lens is using the outer parts of the glass. Also day captures use the outer part of the lens glass where all the distortion stuff is.
Camera noise control below 1 sec or more is way better today the like stated add SW even in post cleaner. The need for speed also is need for sports to say birding get some 5 to 20 images a sec. on fast cameras.
1. the 24-105mm f/4 at 92mm f/8 on the A7RM5
2. a 2015 image using A7SM1 + E 10-18mm f/4 OSS APS-C lens in full frame at 12mm 8 sec. but there was light and using Aperture mode and the camera SW picked the speed.
3. Stop action indoors using A7RM2 + FE 50mm f/1.8 getting 1/160s at f/1.8 ISO 1250 also in Aperture again camera SW picked the speed but a lot of light also
4. But also the camera can get this at .2s 1/5s ISO 800 in Aperture also camera SW what can one say with Auto exposure mode