How to Get Sharp Landscape Photos

Almost every genre places a high priority on sharp images, but sharpness is of a particular importance in landscape photography. So, what can you do to ensure that your landscape photos are as sharp as possible? This helpful video tutorial features an experienced landscape photographer sharing a lot of helpful advice to make your landscape shots pin-sharp.

Coming to you from fototripper, this informative video tutorial will show you how to make your landscape images as sharp as possible. There are several overarching techniques for this, generally with a trade-off between results and effort involved, including things like using the hyperfocal distance and focus stacking. No matter which method you choose, though, having strong basic technique makes a huge difference. This includes things like using a proper tripod, a two-second timer or remote, and mirror lockup mode. Furthermore, you will often find manual focus is a better choice, as you will have the time to zoom in on your point of focus and ensure it is as sharp as possible. Check out the video above for the full rundown. 

And if you really want to dive into landscape photography, check out "Photographing The World 1: Landscape Photography and Post-Processing with Elia Locardi." 

Alex Cooke's picture

Alex Cooke is a Cleveland-based portrait, events, and landscape photographer. He holds an M.S. in Applied Mathematics and a doctorate in Music Composition. He is also an avid equestrian.

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For anyone who doesn't know Gavin- give him a look. He's one of the best landscape photographers I know of, and he is funny as hell! Extremely entertaining videos.

Very VERY GOOD! Aperture the hardest to understand. Most stay wide open to stay away from sensor dust but like stated blur in foreground in daytime but I have found no blur at night, doing milky way at night it is clear and sharp from close to the horizon. To find sensor dust just to the highest aperture like 16-22 do a long SS. Not knowing early about Aperture and thinking a high number was sharpest I did some bracketing 5 @ +/- 2EV at f/22 and got what looked like a pirate in the sand not seen with the eye, I even walked over it and boot prints can be seen Also. the reason for bracketing is to get a very small sun. Ever capture the moon use ISO/SS 125 and F8 to 11 for sharpness when you magnify you will see the sharpness change, can do with any lens. 1800mm to fill the sensor 200-600mm + 2x teleconverter + APS-C mode but it moves very fast.
Do the moon at 600mm to get stars also. Milky Way A7s at f/4 SS 30s with FE 16-35mm F4 at 16mm, the city is clear and sharp on the horizon and sand closest is sharp also, difference between night and day. a f/4 lens you can do a 30s shot but a f/1.4 you have to shoot at 8s -10s to not get elongated stars, at 1.8 you are using the most outer parts of lens glass. Again aperture is a great study. Every capture an experiment with your mind whirling in the quietness.