How to Shoot and Edit a Day-To-Night Transition Time-Lapse With Your DSLR

If you have ever shot time-lapse, you know the struggles of dealing with hundreds, if not thousands of large files. While Lightroom and other post production programs can definitely make editing your time-lapse easier, LRTimelapse is a program that can further ease the editing process and improve your workflow. LRTimelapse allows keyframing and grading of time-lapse sequences in an all RAW file-based workflow, as well as creating day to night time-lapse transitions easily and helping to get rid of annoying flicker effects in your sequence, all in the comfort of Lightroom. 

In this 11-minute video tutorial, Cal Thomson of Manchester, UK shows you how to shoot and edit a day-to-night transition for a time-lapse video. He covers everything from in-camera settings to post-production and editing. If you have ever had issues with annoying flicker in your time-lapses, are just looking to speed up your workflow, or just want to learn a new editing technique, check out this tutorial, and let us know what you think. If you're still hungry for more time-lapse info, you can check out other popular tutorials from Thomson, including his Hyper-lapse Tutorial, as well as this Night Sky Time-Lapse Tutorial. If you have any further tips, techniques, or programs that you find helpful for shooting or editing time-lapse, feel free to sound off in the comments section below. 

[via Petapixel]

Log in or register to post comments

2 Comments

Robin Browne's picture

Thanks Cal, a ton of info here. I am sure that I will have to watch a few times.

Craig Jeffries's picture

One thing to consider in timelapse is the actual interval as well. Whilst in the tutorial he mentions about 10 seconds between photos, if you have relatlively fast moving clouds, 10 second gaps will make the clouds look jumpy. So consider the movement in your scene. As well as that, think about how much time you want to compress into how many seconds of video, as well as the playback frames per second to help with intervals. All smart phones have timelapse apps to help calculate that, although my windows phone seems to have less choice, they still work.

If you're not shooting sunrise or sunset, consider whether you really need to shoot raw. Raw has huge advantages in post edit, but last job I did I had 3000 raw frames to process and then exported as tiff for maximum options for the video editor, but that literally took many many hours to export (consequently justified me upgrading my PC this week, so not all bad...) to be viewed only as 1080p final resolution on uncalibrated TV screens.

Final tip from me, is if you're wanting to plan ahead to track where the Sun will rise to frame your shot, there's smart phone apps that let you hold the phone up to the horizon with the camera function on, and it will overlay where the Sun will be at sunrise and the path it will rise up at with timestamps to help you plan how long you need your shots to be. I use Sun Tracker for Windows Phone - I like this app, but just need to move the phone around a little to help it get the compass right.

I by no means consider myself a timelapse expert, this is just my opinion from my experience...