Tamron 25-200mm G2 vs Sigma 20-200mm: The Right All-in-One Zoom for Travel

Packing one lens for a trip sounds smart until you get home and realize you missed half the shots you wanted. A travel zoom that starts wide, reaches long, and stays light changes how you plan, shoot, and move through a place.

Coming to you from Jared Polin, this hands-on video puts the Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 in the real world instead of a studio corner. Polin frames it as the one-lens option when you want to stop swapping glass and start shooting, especially on travel days. You hear how the second-gen shift to 25mm changes what you can fit into the frame compared to the older Tamron 28-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III RXD, and you see him lean on that extra width in a city setting. He also keeps circling back to the obvious rival, the Sigma 20-200mm F3.5-6.3 DG | Contemporary.

The practical part starts fast: how it feels in hand, what the controls do, and what annoys you after an hour of walking. Polin calls out the 67mm filter thread, the zoom lock, and the custom button, then points to a small detail that affects daily use more than lab charts: how the lens behaves when it hangs at your side. He compares the zoom-lock approach to Sigma’s, and if you’ve dealt with lens creep, you’ll know why that matters before you even mount it. He also lays out the variable aperture behavior with specific focal lengths, which is the kind of thing you usually learn the hard way on a street corner. If you shoot indoors or at dusk, hearing where it leaves f/2.8 quickly is a quiet reality check.

The footage from Frankfurt, plus the stop at Leica headquarters, gives you a sense of how 25mm looks in tight streets versus how 200mm compresses a scene from across a square. You also get hard numbers on close focus, including the wide-end minimum distance, which hints at how often this lens can save you from carrying a dedicated macro. Autofocus talk stays grounded too, including his use of a Sony a7 IV and what you can expect when tracking is not perfect with third-party glass.

There’s no lens stabilization, so results depend on what your camera body can do and how steady you are. He mentions shooting down to 1/10 second in a crowd to build motion blur on purpose. Then he broadens the choice set with alternatives like the Tamron 28-300mm f/4-7.1 Di III VC VXD if you want stabilization and more reach and the Tamron 50-300mm f/4.5-6.3 Di III VC VXD as a different answer when 200mm is not enough for field sports. Check out the video above for the full rundown from Polin.

Alex Cooke is a Cleveland-based photographer and meteorologist. He teaches music and enjoys time with horses and his rescue dogs.

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3 Comments

So we're writing AI articles now? lmfao

The Tamron and Sigma brand of lenses are great and inexpensive [lower cost(never cheap)]. One thing the reviewers never mention is the APS-C in camera crop where the full frame camera uses the center of the sensor meaning greater amount of focus pixels as well as less distortion at edges and corners.
There is a Sony lens that has more like OSS like most all Telephoto Sony lens where primes do not have OSS/IS.
I have been capturing light with the Sony brand since 2014 with the A7SM1 (non IBIS) and used it till 2017 when the A7RM2 came out that is when IBIS was some help along with OSS/IS.
Also a lens I got in 2015 was the FE 24-240mm F3.5-6.3 OSS Full-frame Telephoto Zoom Lens with Optical SteadyShot. And even better with IBIS. The MAIN Point is first a Sony lens but also 24-240mm and yes many think the bad is F3.5-6.3 why? I think it is because in the DSLR days ISO's were limited to a max of 6400 unless one you selected extension which in those days noise was a heart attack problem due to no help in getting rid of it - BUT today every editing program as some form of noise reduction. Now we are in mirrorless days and in camera NR (for the longer exposures) and even noise control in all images with Higher ISO's are way better. So what is the fear of worrying about the higher f/#'s of a telephoto lens?
The FE 24-240mm F3.5-6.3 OSS on a Sony body when a Full Frame camera can go to APS-C mode at the press of a button getting a 1.5x crop equal to, with this lens, 36-360 and that crop is using less sensor space in being the center of the sensor where in full frame some parts do not use some areas with AF, so better AF time.
Bottom line is a lens for travel you have a range of 24-360mm, and yes the Tamron and Sigma also full frame lens can use the same APS-C to get more MM's but only to 300mm crop. About bokeh yes you can also get foreground and background bokeh/blur or separation or narrow field of view.
It is also good for playing in the dark. Also great for fast Bracketing at sunrise/sets.
Yes Cost is a little more but you stay with Sony in/on your bag/shelve.
On the subject of travel what if you want a light and small lens for those times you just want more. now for the opposite function going from APS-C to Full Frame, APS-C E 10-18mm (15-27mm in 35mm) f/4 OSS but in Full Frame 12mm-18mm (18mm if you remove the rear light shield. You get in APS-C a lens for indoors of 15-27mm but also a super small with treads up front for filters 12-18mm in full frame, way smaller than the FE 12-24mm f/4 or f/2.8 both need external filters with also holders extra stuff in your big bag.
Together your range in your bag is 12mm-360mm all fit in a small tear drop shoulder bag not showing that you have a camera and lenses as you travel or even in a photo vest with so many pockets you even get extra stuff and still no one sees your things on a walkabout.
These two lenses live in my day and night teardrop bags.

Great shots, but that aggressive post processing makes them look like they were taken with a phone camera.