Every Single Light Modifier Compared: The Ultimate Guide

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Grid of 50 behind-the-scenes photography studio images showing lighting setups, equipment, and production work.

I notice many guides online for various light modifiers available. What I don’t see as much is a proper comparison of nearly every modifier available. Having sorted through my kit a few days ago, I realized I have numerous modifiers. In this article, we will compare modifiers so that next time you’re selecting one, you understand their functions.

Lighting is by far one of my favorite topics, and I really can’t go a month without writing an article about lighting in some way. This promises to be quite a lengthy article, so let’s dive in.

Zoom Reflector

The most basic of them all, this reflector gives off a nice focused light with gradual falloff at position 4 and an even flood at position 10. The shadow produced is quite hard. This light will bring out a ton of detail as it’s hard and specular, with a hotspot in the middle.

Man in black shirt and pants standing in professional studio with white cyclorama backdrop and lighting equipment.
Man in black clothing standing in a studio with professional lighting equipment and camera gear visible.
Man in black clothing standing in a professional studio setup with white backdrop and studio lighting equipment.

With 20-Degree Grid

Adding a grid to this light makes it more focused. Basically, you’re left with the big hotspot in the middle, with very dramatic falloff to the edge. Crucially, if you are using a grid with your zoom reflector, make sure to position it at 4 for maximum light output. The zoom position will not change the lighting pattern but will change the output.

Man in black shirt standing in studio lit by overhead key light with dramatic shadow on backdrop.

With 5-Degree Grid

The tightest grid you can get. The result is the same as with a 20-degree grid, but with a much tighter light beam. Crucially, the falloff will always be gradated.

Person in black t-shirt illuminated by dramatic backlit glow against dark background.

Snoot

Similar to a grid, a snoot will give an approximately 20-degree light spread and make the light harder. In a way, it is the hardest light source you can have if you don’t use a hardbox. That said, a snoot should only be used if you want to have a harder light, an actually harder light. Grids don’t change the size of the light source; hence, the contrast and softness stay the same.

Man in black shirt standing in dramatic studio lighting with circular light source and shadow cast on backdrop.

Optical Snoot

Ultimate light control. Hard and deep shadows. As hard as light can get. 

Two silhouetted figures standing against a bright backlit glow in darkness.

Narrowbeam Reflector

One of my favorite hard reflectors. It gives very even light perfect for lighting backgrounds at position 4, while at position 8, it creates a true narrow beam with really dramatic falloff into an even pattern. This is something unique to the narrowbeam reflector.

Man in black clothing standing in a studio with professional lighting equipment and a wheeled cart visible.
Person in black clothing standing against a bright backdrop in a professional studio setup with lighting equipment visible.
Man in black clothing standing in a professional studio setup with controlled lighting.

OCF Magnum Reflector

The OCF magnum will double the power of your OCF flashes. It is similar to the Zoom reflector in shape, but crucially, the interior is very reflective, similar to the narrowbeam reflector. It is a very good on-location modifier that allows you to direct the light more.

Person in black clothing standing against white cyclorama in studio with professional lighting equipment visible.
Man in black clothing standing against white backdrop in studio with professional lighting equipment visible.

ProFresnel Spot

Another personal favorite, this modifier gives really deep light that can be thrown over large distances. The light from a Fresnel is special in the sense that it brings out a ton of detail while also creating deep black shadows. At position 4, it will be in spot mode; however, at position 10, it will flood the scene.

Man in dark clothing standing in studio with diffused overhead lighting creating a glowing backdrop.
Man in black shirt standing against white cyclorama backdrop in studio with professional lighting setup.

Profoto 3’ Octa

My favorite softbox to use ever. This softbox is the perfect balance between slightly hard but still soft and diffused light. It will give nice skin textures, warm up the light a little bit, and be a very versatile modifier for lighting people.

Portrait of a person standing in a photography studio with professional lighting equipment.

Profoto 3’ Octa With Grid

Adding a grid will reduce the light spill, and if you work in a small studio, you will see more contrast. It is because of the reduced bounce that you will see greater contrast. I tend to use a grid on my 3’ octa whenever I want to separate the key light from whatever is going on in the background.

Photographer standing in studio setup with large softbox and lighting equipment visible.

Profoto 1x3 Strip Softbox

This small strip softbox will be a perfect light for lighting hair and acting as a kicker. You can use it to light close-up portraits as well. It will give a fairly even light in the vertical direction while keeping the light quite hard in the horizontal, which is perfect for sculpting faces or adding accents on garments.

Man in black clothing standing against white backdrop in studio with professional lighting equipment visible.

Profoto Umbrella Shallow M

This modifier will give a nice, fairly soft diffused light due to the white interior. This modifier can be used for lighting backgrounds due to the even light spread.

Man in black clothing standing against white studio wall with professional lighting equipment visible.

Profoto Umbrella Shallow M With Diffuser

Adding a diffuser will further diffuse the light and make it more even as a result. This is a great opportunity to use the umbrella as a key light for the subject. Because the light is super diffused, you are unlikely to see any detail in the skin, which can be a benefit.

Person standing against white backdrop in professional studio with lighting equipment and cases visible.

Profoto Umbrella Deep White XL

I rarely use the deep white XL without the diffuser because the modifier is unevenly lit. However, if you do have this modifier without any diffusion, you can still expect very soft diffused light due to the size and interior color. This can be great for getting good e-commerce pictures and even soft diffused light on the subject.

Man standing in front of a white cyclorama background during a professional portrait photography session.

Profoto Umbrella Deep White XL with Diffuser

Adding a diffuser will make use of the full 165 cm of the modifier you are given. As such, you will be able to take advantage of the super diffused, soft, and even light pattern that it casts. Typically, there is very minimal shadow just because the light is so soft. This umbrella is great for lighting group shots and portraits as well.

Man in black clothing standing against white backdrop during studio photo session with professional lighting equipment visible.

Profoto Clic Dome

Moving onto the modifiers made for A-series flashes, the dome comes in handy if you want to create a more even light pattern. Crucially, the dome will not make your head act like a Prohead. Use the dome if you want to even out your light spread, but keep in mind that due to the size of the light, it will still be quite hard.

Person in black clothing standing against white backdrop in studio with visible shadow and equipment.

Profoto Clic Grid 10 Deg

The 10-degree grid does exactly as you’d expect: reduce the light pattern to 10 degrees. This is a great tool for adding accents to your images.

Two silhouetted figures standing in a minimalist white studio space with studio lighting equipment visible.

Profoto Clic Grid 20 Deg

The twenty-degree grid is not much different from the 10-degree version, which makes me wonder why make two different ones. Perhaps on an A2, it would behave slightly differently, but as far as the A1 goes, the difference is minimal. The light is hard and specular, making for some sharp shadows and dramatic falloff.

Person in black clothing standing against illuminated white backdrop in studio setting.

Profoto Clic Softbox

The Clic softbox comes with me on those trips where I really can’t take much kit. I reviewed this modifier and praised it for how easy and fast it is to set up. Expect to see nice soft diffused light. I would not light a full-body image with it, but it is perfect for anything half-body and close-up.

Man in black clothing standing against white wall in photography studio with professional lighting equipment visible.

Profoto OCF Beauty Dish

Similar to the softlight reflector, this beauty dish will allow you to capture not only beauty images but also be used as a makeshift softbox if you throw on a diffuser. When it comes to the OCF range, this is my favorite modifier to use.

Photographer standing against white backdrop in studio with professional lighting equipment visible on either side.
Studio portrait setup with subject in black clothing against white backdrop and professional lighting equipment visible.
With Diffuser

Profoto Bare Prohead

A bare Prohead will give very wide and even light coverage, which will be hard. As simple as light shaping gets, really.

Man in black clothing standing in a photography studio with professional lighting equipment and a white backdrop.

Profoto Bare A1

As simple as speedlights go, this is a perfect hard light solution. I often use mine zoomed in and on-camera to create a very direct front flash light. Overexposing this will blow out the highlights but increase contrast as a result.

Person in black clothing standing against white backdrop in studio with visible lighting equipment.

Chimera 3x4 Softbox

This modifier is quite special in the sense that it’s no regular softbox. It gives light like any other softbox, but the front of it is quite recessed, meaning that there will be more control over spill with these softboxes. I do prefer the 3’ octa over the 3x4 softbox, though.

Portrait subject standing in studio with professional lighting setup and equipment visible.

Chimera 4x6 Softbox

The biggest one out there, it is a perfect fill light or key light for situations where you need soft, even light without any shadows. I love using this softbox for large sets both as fill and as a key, as well as e-commerce. Compared to the XL umbrella, this light is considerably softer.

Person in black clothing standing against white backdrop with studio lighting equipment visible on right side.

Chimera Large Stripbox (1x6)

A large Stripbox made especially for lighting full-body images and made to be used on large sets, this one gives a controlled light pattern when compared to other 1x6 stripboxes. It is also a little wider, meaning that it gives fairly soft and even light that is perfect for lighting individual subjects. I use this modifier as a sidelight or as a background light the most.

Man standing against white wall in studio setup with professional lighting equipment and black fabric reflectors.

Questions?

Share any questions in the comments below! 

Illya aims to tell stories with clothes and light. Illya's work can be seen in magazines such as Vogue, Marie Claire, and InStyle.
https://models.com/people/illya-ovchar
LIGHTING COURSE: https://illyaovchar.com/lighting-course-1

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8 Comments

Looks like a lot of work but it seems that many are a stop or two under exposed...shouldn't the BG be white in all the different set ups?

A brighter image, something that is how it would look in use, IMO would help.
I don't see how the under exposure helps to show "fall off".

Woefully incomplete compared to the title. It's not even complete for Profoto branded light modifiers.

Hmmm not sure the falloff is as important as the quality of light that each modifier produces. Perhaps exposing the subject equally in each frame would have been a better comparison?

Technically the falloff is defined by inverse square law, what you’re demonstrating is how much light is eaten up by each modifier between the source and the subject.

FWIW I did a simple adjustment in exposure, and you can easily see the difference . But I think this thread is dead.

Maybe the intention was to show how much each modifier reduces the light, but I don't see why that is a thing..?

Thanks for posting this. I have a bunch of reflectors that I have not even tried to see their effects on a subject. This might help.

Great comparison. I was wondering some of the photos look a bit dark, maybe underexposed. is this exactly how you would expose on actual shoot? And would you bring up the exposure in post? If so, how many stops do you underexpose your shots?