Choosing the right paper for your inkjet prints is more complicated than most people expect, and most of the confusion comes from marketing language, not actual technical differences. Understanding what paper names actually mean, and what's really inside the box, can save you money and frustration.
Coming to you from Keith Cooper, this thorough video breaks down the two fundamental components of any inkjet paper: the base and the coating. Cooper explains that despite the overwhelming number of paper brands and product names on the market, there are relatively few actual paper manufacturers and even fewer coating companies. That means many papers with different names on the box are, in practice, the same product. He uses his own profiling work with the Epson SC-P8550 as a concrete example, noting that several papers he has tested are almost certainly identical despite carrying different brand names. Cooper also calls out the GSM weight spec as an area where marketing drift is common, with some suppliers quietly adding a few grams to make their product look distinct from a competing paper that came from the same factory.
The coating is where the real performance differences live, and Cooper walks through how ink interacts with different surface types. Pigment inks, for example, tend to sit on the surface rather than absorbing into the coating, which can produce a bronzing effect on certain papers when light hits at a glancing angle. He demonstrates this with a print made on a Epson SC-P20500, showing that while the effect is subtle, it is visible if you know what to look for. This is why Cooper's consistent advice is to choose your printer first, then find papers that work well with it. A paper that performed beautifully on an older printer may not behave the same way on a new one, and no amount of profiling will fix a fundamental mismatch between ink and coating.
Cooper also gives practical guidance on how to figure out whether two papers from different brands are actually the same product. Rather than relying on GSM numbers alone, he suggests looking for specification details that are unique to a given paper. If two papers list brightness in entirely different units, they likely came from different suppliers. If the spec sheets look nearly identical down to the decimal, there is a good chance they are the same paper in different packaging. He points out that neither Canon nor Epson manufacture their own papers, which means the same paper maker supplying them is almost certainly supplying other brands too. He also flags that many terms carry no standardized definition, so a paper only needs to contain some barium sulfate or some cotton fiber to use those names on the box. For anyone starting out, Cooper's concrete recommendations on which two or three papers to begin with and why are worth watching the video for directly. Check out the video above for the full rundown from Cooper.
2 Comments
Experimenting with a new paper sample pack is like Christmas for me. I love all the subtle differences in texture. However, even though a simple luster paper is not generally considered glamorous or fine art, it most closely matches the color and contrast of what I see on my monitor.
Since I work in mostly black and white, and mostly from large format black and white negatives I want the work coming out of my wide format Epson printer to match the look of my darkroom prints as closely as possible. To that end I have found that Epson Exhibition Fiber is about as close as I can get. I have tested various Red River Papers, and they are very good, but the Epson Paper is a very close match to Iflord Fiber Based Darkroom paper.