Handholding a long telephoto lens is one of the fastest ways to come home with a memory card full of soft, blurry shots. Even small movements get amplified at long focal lengths, and if your technique is off, no amount of image stabilization will fully bail you out.
Coming to you from Todd DeWald, this practical video breaks down exactly how to stabilize yourself when handholding a long telephoto lens for wildlife shooting. DeWald starts with hand placement, and the key point is surface area. Your supporting hand should grip as much of the lens barrel as possible, and your elbow should tuck into your body at roughly a 90-degree angle rather than sticking out. He also makes a point most people overlook: press the eye cup firmly against your eye. That contact dampens vibration from your hand and the camera body in a way that keeping a loose grip on the viewfinder simply doesn't.
DeWald also covers body position in a way that's more systematic than you might expect. Standing is your least stable option, full stop. Crouching lets you tuck your elbow into your thigh, which is noticeably better. Sitting cross-legged is better still, because at that point your arms are resting on your legs and your skeleton is doing the work instead of your muscles. Lying prone is the most stable of all the positions he covers. He also talks about using your environment, including logs, trees, and your own backpack, as makeshift supports when you don't have a tripod.
One of the more counterintuitive tips in the video involves burst shooting. The first frame in a burst is actually your least sharp, because that's the moment your finger is pressing down on the shutter. By the second or third frame, your finger has stopped moving and the camera is just firing on its own. Shooting a short burst instead of a single frame gives you better odds of walking away with a sharp image. DeWald is using OM System gear in the video, which pairs strong in-body and in-lens stabilization, but the principles he covers apply regardless of what system you shoot with. Your minimum usable shutter speed will vary depending on your camera and lens, so the techniques he describes are worth practicing no matter what's in your bag. Check out the video above for the full rundown from DeWald.
5 Comments
The writer assumes too much. How do you know that I'm holding it wrong? How do you know I'm getting soft images? You don't. So, speak for yourself. The headline should be "can cost", not "is costing".
He starts off the video by saying,
"HAVE you ever come home from a wildlife photoshoot only to realize that all your photos are a little soft?"
He was asking a question. If your answer to the question he asked is "NO" then he is not talking to you. He was assuming nothing.
I'm talking about the headline.
All well all tips are great for anyone! Today we have great mono pods with legs at the bottom very inexpensive and have also gimbals exp. Benro GHSC and SIRUI P 325 FL Monopod just order an extra quick release for the Benro GHSC it does not come with one.
Another to think about is most all telephoto lenses have OSS/IS and more cameras today have IBIS so if on a sturdy surface remember to turn off IBIS and on lens OSS or else that may be the problem, just saying.
Also even at 1200mm or going APS-C on your full frame for 1800mm you will have blur front and rear so AF EYE for birds may have to be selected and also to get the brightness down on white feathers just decrease exposure +/- down till zebras fade some.
This last year using a tripod and talk about a pain getting around or even capturing birds in flight.
Also even at the minimum f/# for the lens on 600mm zoomed way out DOF will be narrow something not to worry about.
I use for my scouting with my Sony the FE 24-240mm (36-360mm in APS-C) remember in post if you want you can always make it larger everyone crops anyway and does that.
first image at 360mm with the FE 24-240mm (36-360mm in APS-C).
Play good and just have FUN
Good solid tips; thanks! It's good to review them. I'd like to add that there are more tips that many veterans might remember from rifle practice at the range.
Breath control can help. As I hold my camera (or rifle) with a strong grip I exhale by slowly forcing the air from my lungs; I'll either continue slowly exhaling as I shoot or I'll hold my breath half-way and shoot between heartbeats. Which of these 2 steps I do depends on what I think is needed for a steady shot.
Would any veterans here like to comment on this?