I would like to wrap up my Secrets to Crafting Top-Quality Beauty Portraits series in a quick roundup on the most common mistakes I have been noticing beginner Beauty photographers make.
I will sure talk more about Beauty photography in the future, but I'd like to summarize a few things at this point.
From my own experience I've noticed that the elements and facts that my Australian photography teachers brought to our attention hundreds of times throughout the 2-year course, are those that became my second nature. By hearing our teachers repeat the same things multiple times, we could actually realize what's most important to remember and take them into account when shooting.
Sometimes hearing something for the third time would actually strike me and finally make sense. That's why some of the things I will mention today will be the things that I have already talked about in my previous articles. I am bringing them to your attention today again because I believe they are that important.
And of course, as usual, everything I write in this post is purely my personal opinion. You don't have to agree with every point I make, just take what you like and I hope it helps you to become a better Beauty photographer.
1. Thinking You Can't Do It On Your Own
I believe this is the biggest mistake a beginner photographer can make. And if you think of it, it's just an excuse that helps you rest in your comfort zone. You don't have access to beautiful models, experienced creative team, modern studio, expensive gear and lighting equipment? Well, very few of us have that when we're starting out.
In this day and age building your team is easier than ever. Social media, online groups, communities, Model Mayhem, etc. Yes, you may bump into a few people you won't be happy with, but you'll just have to keep looking to find your reliable, creative and determined art-partners. If no one in your team is experienced enough - doesn't matter! Shoot regularly, get together and analyze each other's work (you, your model, hair-stylist, makeup artist, wardrobe stylist) and grow together.
You don't have access to a studio? Well, you might find it interesting that a big part of work in my portfolio was photographed whether in my living room or in the basement. Luckily, we usually need very little space for Beauty photography. For closeup Beauty - just a little corner and a blank wall.
Beauty portraits for private clients can be taken anywhere - on a couch, on a balcony, on the floor, outside, just wherever you want. So practice shooting everywhere.
You don't have expensive lights, professional cameras and lenses? Shoot with what you have. Buy the cheapest light on a stand if you can't afford professional lighting. Your skills and the ability to see and "feel" light, frame your images beautifully and direct your models have nothing to do with popular brands and expensive equipment. But a lot of practice does.
So don't let all these excuses stop you from practicing like a maniac.
Here are some of my most favorite images to this day that were shot at home.
It's not exactly a Beauty portrait, but you get my point.
Click on the image to see the whole post-production process in a time-lapse video:
2. Using Inappropriate Lenses
When you are shooting Beauty, you typically don't need to include much of the surroundings into the frame, thus you don't need a wide angle lens. Moreover, anything under 70-100mm focal length distorts facial features and proportions the closer you get to your subject.
I personally notice that distortion even in images shot with 70mm lens. So, keep in mind that the more canvas space a face takes up in a photo, the longer focal length it is recommended to shoot with. If you are going for a very tight closeup (just the face), you will need a Macro lens.
3. Using Inappropriate Light Modifiers
Always remember that the more problematic or aged your subject's skin is the softer light you should use. Large softbox, diffused light, filled in shadows - those are the things that will make it easier to clean the skin up in post-production and make the portrait more flattering.
Side lighting will emphasize uneven skin texture, which is what we want to avoid in Beauty photography, so make sure your light isn't just soft, but it is also placed correctly.
If you only have a regular metal reflector for your light head, you can use parchment paper (baking paper) as a diffuser. It will soften the light and won't catch on fire from the heat of the modeling lamp.
I'm sure you know this, but I will repeat it anyway, because it is one of the most important things you need to know about the light behavior:
Direct light creates hard-edged dark shadows. The smaller the light source (relative to the size of the subject) or the farther away it is from the subject, the sharper and darker the shadows will be. The hardest light is created by a point source, a light small enough or far enough that its actual size is irrelevant. Think of the sun on a clear day, a spotlight on a performer on a stage.
Diffused light scatters onto the subject from many directions, creating very bright or no shadows. The closer the light source or the larger it is (in relation to the size of the subject), the softer and brighter the shadows will be. Think of a heavily overcast sky, when entire sky becomes the source of light, a big window on the northern side of a building.
4. Shooting With Camera Level Above Subject's Eye Level
Of course, this is not a rule for all types of Beauty images, but you need to always keep in mind that when you shoot down from a camera level above your model's eye level you will make her neck look shorter.
When my model is sitting on a stool during the shoot I almost always crouch or even kneel down. Looking slightly up (and slightly is the key word here) allows me to visually elongate my model's neck and also make her look graceful, elegant, and almost royal-like thanks to the perspective.
5. Stepping Too Far Back
In Editorial and Fashion photography we often include a lot of surroundings into the frame and use wide angle lens. With Beauty, however, we usually mainly focus on the subject's face and need to be closer to it.
Observe Beauty images in magazines and cosmetics advertising, you will notice how little negative space is usually left around the model's head in those images.
Check out my previous article on Framing & Posing for Beauty Photography to learn more about different types of Beauty and how much negative space is traditionally acceptable in each type.
6. "I'll Fix It Later In Photoshop" Mindset
Being alert and observant during your photo shoot is the best thing you can do for the post-production stage. Even if you are a Photoshop ninja and can do wonders with your retouching skills, you will save yourself a lot of time by fixing the model's flyaway hairs, smeared makeup, twisted shoulder straps and tangled necklace before you release the shutter.
If your makeup artist and/or hairstylist can stick around for touchups during the shoot - even better! They will see and fix much more for you, since they can stay right out of the frame near the model.
If you are shooting for a client and someone else will be retouching your images, you will do your client a huge favor and save them some editing expenses by getting things right in camera. And the retoucher will think highly of you for providing him or her with great and clean raw material.
7. Not Checking Your Camera Monitor Often Enough To Correct Your Mistakes
I've seen this too often to ignore at my workshops. A lot of photographers continue clicking away for too long without checking what they are actually getting. To me it seems like setting yourself up for a failure. Especially if you're not checking your monitor while still adjusting the light in the beginning of the shoot.
I've learned this the hard way. So many times my model was giving me a great pose, movement or a facial expression, and I took a bunch of photos praising her for doing a great job, only to later realize that my lighting was far from what I wanted it to be.
Or sometimes I was hugely overexposing or underexposing because I had just changed my camera setting and didn't double check my camera monitor.
Now it is my second nature to keep checking the back of my camera after each 4-7 shots. If I know my lighting is set up and everything looks great, I can sure go on without checking it for much longer, focusing my attention on the model and her movements.
8. Lack Of Communication
Talk to your model as you shoot. It helps her to feel comfortable and informed, which in turn helps you to get better poses and facial expressions out of her.
If you are trying to frame your shot better and not releasing the shutter for too long, keep communicating with your model. Help her to get in beautiful poses with your direction, encourage her and tell her nice things to make her feel good about herself.
My point is, great Beauty photography is created when there's a good connection and understanding between you and your model, which can be achieved with good communication.
And I will repeat my words of caution regarding touching your models: if you need to fix her hair, or her accessories, gently ask for her permission first, then touch. You will only show her your respect and come off as a courteous professional.
9. Over-Processed Skin
This point isn't about shooting, yet it is the element that can make or break your Beauty images. And I see photographers make this mistake more often then any of the ones I've mentioned above.
When retouching skin, our goal is to retain its texture while evening out its colors and tones. We want to make skin look healthy, even and fresh. If you are only starting out shooting and retouching Beauty, I would recommend that you first familiarize yourself with retouching guidelines and considerations for different types of Beauty photography.
Once you understand how much and what needs to be retouched, focus on practicing working with the essential tools for retouching face and hair. And after you got those tools under control, learn and practice the Frequency Separation technique, which will help you doctor colors and tones separately from skin texture for the best results.
My other favorite skin retouching technique is Dodge & Burn, but I will talk about it in one of my future posts.
Hope this summary was helpful!
And if you can think of other common mistakes you notice beginner Beauty photographers (or you) make, please share them with us in the comments below, so we can all learn from them.
Thanks for the post Julia.
I'm glad to know your work Julia hence i avoid following the mistakes done by seniors in my country.
Could you please write a bad article so that we know you're a human?! =) Thanks again for the great read.
lol, ok, well I can do that, although I am not completely sure if I am a human :P
Such a great post. Thanks for sharing :)
Thanks for sharing
I came across this series today, and had the pleasure of reading them all in one sitting. Fantastic! Thanks for all the great insight!
Thank you for your kind words :)
Your posts are really great, thanks for sharing your knowledge so concisely.
i learned a lot!
Thank you Douglas :)
Thanks for the info and encouragement! Nice article.
Fantastic tips and coming from someone who knows what they are talking about - that Timelapse video was inspired! Thanks for the share :)
Julia, another great article. You have the knack to explain your material in such a clear and understandable manner. Your articles are always an easy read, give great advice and are most interesting. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. I hope you'll do some workshops in NY in the future.
Thank you Paul! That means a lot to hear that I can explain things well, especially because English is not my native language and I am always worried that I can't get my point across.
the last image is an example for over retouched skin i guess?
when you see it´s edited it´s too much if you ask me.
it looks not like any human skin i know.. so it´s overedited.... looking fake.
Petress, no, that's an example of a perfectly edited skin. I personally think Mikhail Malyugin is one of the best skin retouchers out there today.
Do you mean retouched? Edited is generally accepted as the process of selecting images for retouch.
Yes, retouched! Correct :)
overedited?? are you kidding me? Like Julia said, its perfect! :)
Didn't you know, it's the "IN" thing for photographers who can't retouch to complain about overediting. They prefer throwing VSCO filters on an image and calling it a day.
Everyone has their own perspective on perfect skin retouching and culturally it varies by region and of course over time. I used to go for this look and can achieve it but I tend to go for a bit more realism now even to the point of deliberately leaving in subtle flaws sometimes. Generally, I still buck the trend a bit in my region as I think even the moderate amount I do is considered over-processed for many of my local peers.
Retouching is super analogous to makeup IMO. There are different looks for different purposes.
Great article and great work, but VOGUE logos... I find them very immature.
I'm not sure if you are implying that I just pasted the Vogue logos on my own photos, or saying that showing that they were accepted by Vogue.it is immature.
Either way, my point was that one can shoot at home and get good enough images that even photo Vogue approves them.
I understand the situation.
So if your photos were published in other websites you would put other logos too? Thinking that any particular logo gives any value to your work is 'immature'. That's what I wanted to say.
I would also find it very strange if any other world famous photographer would be giving his advices on taking pictures and his images would be covered in logos of magazines that published them.
Calling someone immature is "friendly" these days?
Seriously don't get your problem man. Why shouldn't she be proud and show off the fact that her work made it in to a top magazine. I'm pleased for her and very grateful she's being kind enough to freely share this valuable information with us. Chill out.
:) Many of my friends who do photography as a hobby made it to Vogue.it. May be some of you are not familiar with this web site - It is not the same as making to the "top magazine". But putting a logo of it on your photo looks like a statment that you did and confuses people like you:)
Sorry for an opinion - it won't happen again
I wonder why Tadao Cern's comments now appear as just a Guest. Interesting.
So following your logic having tear sheets in your portfolio is immature.
Again, not sure why you are speculating about other websites and logos while what we are talking about here is specifically one website and it's Vogue.it. I personally think that the Vogue.it team members have an excellent taste for photography, and everything that does get published on that website is great (that's my personal opinion) and I am flattered by having a few of my images accepted. If you believe it's immature to be proud of your work when you get that sort of validation from the establishment you respect and look up to, that's fine with me. Everyone is entitled to have their own opinion.
But regardless of how I personally feel about photography on Vogue.it, my point was still to show that one can shoot at home and get good enough images that even photo Vogue accepts them. I love their taste and I'm sure many photographers who read this article do too.
It's a fantastic image and you have every right to be proud and use the logo IMHO.
Getting noticed by Vogue and NOT using that to your business advantage is simply a missed opportunity and would be considered a bad business decision.
Calling someone immature for promoting their business is, at best, an incorrect use of the word, and at the other end, a cheap shot for no known reason.
I think you have this backwards....every photographer I know who shoots for a respected company, brand, or publication most DEFINITELY reminds the reader that their work has been published by that well known name. In most cases, the photography is good but the success in being hired by a well known company is what really sells the artist.
Wow dude, jealous much?
Lighten up dude. If I had any form of published worked I'd want to make it known too. It's called marketing yourself...AKA "PAYING THE BILLS".
I don't know why you think that is immature.
all this coming from a "Guest" to cool/lazy/ashamed/?? to use their real name?
He changed it to Guest after a few people responded to his statement.
makes sense. Really loved the PP video of the dia e los muertos. Learned a good amount from it.
@juliakuzmenkomckim:disqus haha this is my problem
“I’ll Fix It Later In Photoshop”
Duke, been there for many years too :) It will change once you get very busy with work..
Sure. Thanks for sharing
Another excellent post, thank you.
I disagree with #3. Many if not most commercial beauty images are shot with very hard light.
Not when they have poor skin, which was Julias point.
Kate Moss doesn't have great skin(look at a paparazzi picture of her) and she gets shot all the time with very hard light? http://icydk.com/tag/harpers-bazaar/
I never said they don't.
I disagree with #3. Many if not most commercial beauty images are shot with very hard light.
Hi Julia, I really enjoyed the whole series of articles. The best on fstoppers for a long time. I look forward to more on other subjects in the future.