Fstoppers Originals

Landscape photography looks like it should be easy. You find a beautiful place, point the camera at it, and press the shutter. Then you get home, look at the files, and the magic that was right in front of you has somehow drained out of the picture. Almost always, the cause is not your gear or the location. It is a handful of specific, fixable habits that nearly every beginner falls into. Here are 11 of the most common, each with a fix you can apply the very next time you are out.

In 2010, I made a decision that didn't make much sense on paper. I sold my Nikon gear and bought the first Olympus Pen E-P1.

There is a belief that follows almost every beginner around: that real photographers shoot in manual mode, and that the semi-automatic modes on the dial are a kind of training-wheels embarrassment you are supposed to outgrow as fast as possible. The aperture priority setting even gets the dismissive nickname "A for amateur." It is one of the most persistent myths in photography, and it is wrong. Plenty of working professionals shoot in aperture priority every day and have for decades. The mode you use says nothing about whether you are a pro. What matters is whether you understand what the camera is doing and why.

You may have noticed that photography lenses are marked in f-numbers, f/1.4, f/2.8, f/8, while cinema lenses are marked in T-numbers, T1.5, T2.9, and wondered whether they mean the same thing. They are closely related, they sit in the same spots on the aperture ring, and a T-number looks just like an f-number with a different letter in front. But they measure two genuinely different things, and the gap between them tells you something real about how lenses work and why a cinematographer cares about it while a portrait photographer mostly does not.

There is a peculiar cult operating inside photography. You have seen them: the Autofocus Clergy.

Almost every camera has a shutter, the mechanism that controls how long light hits the sensor, but not all shutters work the same way. Among mechanical shutters, there are two main designs, the leaf shutter and the focal plane shutter, and the difference between them is not trivia. It determines how fast you can sync a flash, how quiet your camera is, how big and expensive your lenses get, and which kind of photography each system is best suited to. If you have ever wondered why a small fixed-lens camera can do something your big mirrorless body cannot, the shutter is often the reason. There are electronic shutter modes too, which we will come to, but the mechanical pair is where the story starts.

Red lights blinking on my NAS. Drive failure. Double drive failure. I'm on RAID 6, so the data's still there, but my heart rate has increased. My day is reprioritized — time to work on this.

So I did what we all do now — I asked the internet, specifically Google's AI, how to fix it. The advice was tactically good, but it missed the real problem, and a thought stuck with me: the same AI tech I was leaning on for answers is the reason storage just got so expensive.

When storage costs this much, having good discipline with your data management practice beats blind redundancy.

After years of shooting with various "crappy" cameras, I realized they're not always as bad as many would think.

You frame a landscape with a striking rock in the foreground and mountains on the horizon, you focus on the mountains because that is your subject, and when you get home the foreground rock is soft. Or you focus on the rock, and the mountains go mushy. The scene your eye saw as sharp from front to back will not cooperate. The fix is more than a century old and it is one of the most useful, and most misunderstood, ideas in landscape photography: the hyperfocal distance.

Pull focus on a video clip from a near subject to a far one and watch the edges of the frame. On many lenses, the image seems to subtly zoom in or out as the focus shifts, as if the lens is quietly inhaling and exhaling. That is focus breathing, and once you have noticed it you cannot unsee it. For photographers it is usually a footnote. For anyone shooting video, it is one of the defining differences between a photo-first lens and a lens built for video or cinema, and it explains a large part of why true cinema lenses cost what they do.

Let's begin with the usual disclaimer:

I am not affiliated with Canon in any way. No sponsorships. No ambassador contract. No free gear raining from heaven. This is simply the perspective of a working photographer who has spent years using multiple systems professionally across documentary, editorial, portrait, and street photography.

Back in September 2024, I sat down to write an article for Fstoppers called What I Wish I Knew Earlier. I had no idea it would eventually become a trilogy of books. At the time, it was simply an opportunity to reflect on some of the lessons landscape photography had taught me over the years. Not the technical lessons that can be found in camera manuals or specification sheets, but the things that only seem to reveal themselves after countless early mornings, long drives, missed opportunities, and disappointing photographs.

Have you ever wished for a photography accessory or tool and dreamed of making it yourself? If you're the kind of photographer who likes finding neat solutions, 3D printing might be worth checking out.

Bokeh is one of those words you hear constantly in photography and almost never hear defined. People use it to mean "blurry background," they use it to mean "expensive lens," and they use it as a compliment without being able to say what they are complimenting. So let us clear it up, because once you understand what bokeh actually is, you can stop chasing it blindly and start using it on purpose.

For most of digital photography's history, medium format meant one thing: a five-figure investment, a deliberate studio pace, and a tool reserved for commercial shooters whose clients paid for the absolute ceiling of image quality. The format was the opposite of mainstream by definition. It was the thing you rented for the shoot, not the thing you owned and carried.

I am, by training and inclination, a black and white photographer. My very first exposure to black and white photography, as an artful medium, was a photograph that I saw when I was in art school many years ago that was entitled "Monolith, the Face of Half Dome." At that time I was studying to become a Board Illustrator, which would have been a bored illustrator. The moment I saw that one photograph became a transformative one for me. Of course, when that happened the only option in terms of doing photography was to use film (this was way before digital was available), and my goal was to use black and white photography as my means of artistic expression.

Landscape photography has a reputation as a gear-hungry genre, and it is easy to believe you need a closet full of equipment before you can shoot a decent mountain. You do not. The genre actually rewards a small, deliberate kit more than almost any other, because you are usually on a tripod, working slowly, with time to think. This guide walks through the categories that matter, points you toward solid current options in each, and is honest about what you can skip.

As photographers, we're inundated with images all day — ads, social media, billboards. Which ones actually inform our work, and where should we be looking?

The fastest way to make better portraits is not to buy a flash, a softbox, and three light stands. It is to learn to see and shape the light you already have. Natural light is free, it is forgiving once you understand it, and it teaches you the fundamentals that every lighting setup later builds on. This guide covers the gear, the camera settings, and the posing and light-shaping basics that get a beginner from snapshots to real portraits, all without a single strobe.

Before anything else gets misread, I want to make one thing clear.

Years ago, Leica Camera AG hired me for an assignment worth roughly $10,000: the photos in this article are from that assignment that made the Leica X catalog in 2013. Today I have no working relationship with them, and I don't own any Leica cameras. I currently shoot Canon. I mention this only because Leica discussions tend to turn strangely ideological online, as if any nuance automatically comes from sponsorship or resentment. It doesn't. Sometimes it just comes from having been close enough to see how the myth behaves from the inside.

Most photographers meet bracketing exactly once, in a tutorial about high dynamic range landscapes, and walk away thinking it means "shoot three exposures and merge them." That is one kind of bracketing. There may be two more sitting in your camera's menu right now, and most people never touch them.

Photographers have been learning from painting for decades, but only from one half of it. Light, composition, proportion, tonal control — everything that strengthens representation has been absorbed and taught. And that is where the study usually stops. The moment painting stopped depending on the subject, photography largely stopped following it.

Every photographer makes these. The difference between someone who improves fast and someone who plateaus isn't talent; it's how quickly they stop repeating the same fifteen errors. None of these require new gear or more money to fix. Most take a single setting change or a shift in habit. 

The Fstoppers community is brimming with creative vision and talent. Every day, we comb through your work, looking for images to feature as the Photo of the Day or simply to admire your creativity and technical prowess. In 2026, we're featuring a new photographer every month, whose portfolio represents both stellar photographic achievement and a high level of involvement within the Fstoppers community.

“What style do you shoot in?” or “I see a lot of [insert any photographer's name here] in your work.” These types of questions and statements, I'm sure, have been presented to you, and if you've ever wondered why, we can find out together.